读《FT·金融时报》学英语：如何穿出特朗普眼中的“女人味”
Donald Trump is trying to implement some sartorial rigour within his administration.According to intelligence from the White House, the president believes his staff should “have a certain look” and aspire to “be sharply dressed”.Men should wear a tie.Female colleagues have been told to “dress like a woman”, whatever that means.Perhaps he wants them to swing through the White House on tree vines, wearing jungle pelts in the manner of Edgar Rice Burroughs' Jane?
唐纳德·特朗普(Donald Trump)试图在其政府内推行某种严格的着装规定。根据来自白宫的消息，这位总统认为他的员工应该“有一种仪表”，注重“笔挺的着装”。男士应该戴领带。女性工作人员则被告知应“穿得像个女人”——谁知道这是什么意思。或许，他希望她们像埃德加·赖斯·巴勒斯（Edgar Rice Burroughs，《人猿泰山》作者）笔下的珍妮一样，身着丛林皮毛，在树藤上荡过白宫？
那么特朗普眼中什么样才是穿得“像个女人”呢？英国《金融时报》时尚主编乔·埃利森表示：或许可以从其团队内女性官员凯莉安妮·康韦的穿着中看出端倪。
For comic opportunities alone, I hope Trump has directed his female staffers to follow the lead of Kellyanne Conway in their efforts to look “like a woman”.The counsellor to the president is the undisputed star of this fashion circus: a feisty, former cheerleader who, to judge by the state of her inauguration ensemble, takes her style inspiration from the Peruvian refugee Paddington Bear.
仅仅为了搞笑，我希望特朗普已向其女性员工发出指示，在努力看起来“像个女人”方面，要追随凯莉安妮·康韦(Kellyanne Conway)的引领。这位特朗普的顾问是这一时尚马戏团中无可争议的明星：从特朗普就职仪式上她的着装判断，这位争强好胜的前啦啦队长的穿搭灵感，来源于秘鲁难民“巴丁顿熊” (Paddington Bear)。
Conway's taste is mesmerisingly brutal; a muddle of lurid jackets and look-at-me ensembles in primary brights—citrine, vermilion, blood—that are every bit as jarring as her coarse rhetoric.She embraces the type of womanly power glamour observed by weather girls and newscasters: her sleeveless dresses testify to a woman's right to bare arms or, in the case of the ruffled gold jacket she wore to canvass at Trump Tower last November, the right to resemble a gilded valance sheet.But time has been cruel to Conway.Where once she might have been described as perky, the first weeks in office have lent her sleep-starved, kohl-rimmed looks the ravaged expression of a raptor.I can't wait to see what she'll wear next.
康韦的品味之粗俗令人过目难忘；花里胡哨的外套混搭聚焦全场目光的柠檬黄、朱红、血红色等各种艳色套装，就和她粗鲁的措辞一样刺目。她奉行女天气预报员和新闻播音员的那套女性魅力规则：她的无袖连衣裙宣示着女性裸露手臂的权利，去年11月她在特朗普大厦(Trump Tower)游说拉票时穿的那件褶边金色外套则代表女性有权穿得像装饰金边的床幔一样。但是时间对康韦很残酷。一度人们或许还可以用“活泼”这样的词来形容她，特朗普上任头几个星期后，她那张严重缺觉、顶着黑眼圈的脸看起来像迅猛龙一样凶。我迫不及待地想看看她接下来会穿什么。
Whatever about “dressing sharp”.It must take a concerted effort, a willingness even, to look so collectively dreadful.It's also in keeping with the evolution (or should that be devolution?) of world-leader style.
不管“衣着笔挺”意味着什么，白宫员工必定需要一起努力、甚至抱着强大决心，才能集体穿得如此可怕。这还与世界领袖衣着风格的进化（或者我们该说退化？）保持了一致。
Similarly, British prime minister Theresa May's affection for a voluminous tartan suit by Vivienne Westwood has been much discussed in recent weeks.As with the fabled leopard-print shoes in which she strode to power, May has worn the suits in moments of political—and personal—vulnerability, to announce her determination to lead the Conservative party, for example, or lay down a challenging Brexit strategy.Like Spicer's tie, the tartan suit has proven a nifty decoy: capable of sucking up headlines and loud enough to distract from the political business of the day.
类似的，英国首相特里萨·梅(Theresa May)钟爱的一套Vivienne Westwood宽松款格子呢西装最近也受到了热议。就像在大步迈向权力时穿着已经成为传说的豹纹鞋一样，梅总是在容易遭受政治攻击或者人身攻击的时候穿上这套西装，比如在她宣布决定领导保守党时，或者在制定引起争议的英国退欧策略时。就像斯派塞的领带一样，事实证明梅的这套格子呢西装是一个绝佳的诱饵：不仅能够吸引报纸头条，还因为足够引人注目，能够分散人们对当日的政治事务的注意力。
It may look daft, but the wacky wardrobe is a formidable weapon: bad clothes stimulate alternative conversations, they're diverting and normalising.Conway's flowerpot hats are awful, Bannon's flak jacket is filthy and Spicer's ties are plain obnoxious, but they all throw light on the individual that wears them.They give the wearer personality.Even more significantly, the clothes are humanising: one could almost feel sorry for Spicer; while Bannon's gorilla-like bearing has become as morbidly fascinating as his guerrilla-style of governance.It's all quite stupefying to behold—which, presumably, is the point.
古怪的着装可能看起来很傻，但这是一种强大的武器：糟糕的着装会制造另类的话题，不仅转移注意力，还变得正常化。康韦的花盆形帽子很难看，班农的飞行员夹克看起来很脏，斯派塞的领带简直令人作呕，但这些着装都是穿着它们的人的注解，都赋予了穿着者个性。更重要的是，这些着装带来了人情味：人们几乎要为斯派塞感到难过了；而班农大猩猩一样的举止变得和他游击队式的治理风格一样，有了一种诡异的迷人感。这些衣装看起来令人目瞪口呆——这大概就是重点所在。
唐纳德·特朗普(Donald Trump)试图在其政府内推行某种严格的着装规定。根据来自白宫的消息，这位总统认为他的员工应该“有一种仪表”，注重“笔挺的着装”。男士应该戴领带。女性工作人员则被告知应“穿得像个女人”——谁知道这是什么意思。或许，他希望她们像埃德加·赖斯·巴勒斯（Edgar Rice Burroughs，《人猿泰山》作者）笔下的珍妮一样，身着丛林皮毛，在树藤上荡过白宫？
那么特朗普眼中什么样才是穿得“像个女人”呢？英国《金融时报》时尚主编乔·埃利森表示：或许可以从其团队内女性官员凯莉安妮·康韦的穿着中看出端倪。
For comic opportunities alone, I hope Trump has directed his female staffers to follow the lead of Kellyanne Conway in their efforts to look “like a woman”.The counsellor to the president is the undisputed star of this fashion circus: a feisty, former cheerleader who, to judge by the state of her inauguration ensemble, takes her style inspiration from the Peruvian refugee Paddington Bear.
仅仅为了搞笑，我希望特朗普已向其女性员工发出指示，在努力看起来“像个女人”方面，要追随凯莉安妮·康韦(Kellyanne Conway)的引领。这位特朗普的顾问是这一时尚马戏团中无可争议的明星：从特朗普就职仪式上她的着装判断，这位争强好胜的前啦啦队长的穿搭灵感，来源于秘鲁难民“巴丁顿熊” (Paddington Bear)。
Conway's taste is mesmerisingly brutal; a muddle of lurid jackets and look-at-me ensembles in primary brights—citrine, vermilion, blood—that are every bit as jarring as her coarse rhetoric.She embraces the type of womanly power glamour observed by weather girls and newscasters: her sleeveless dresses testify to a woman's right to bare arms or, in the case of the ruffled gold jacket she wore to canvass at Trump Tower last November, the right to resemble a gilded valance sheet.But time has been cruel to Conway.Where once she might have been described as perky, the first weeks in office have lent her sleep-starved, kohl-rimmed looks the ravaged expression of a raptor.I can't wait to see what she'll wear next.
康韦的品味之粗俗令人过目难忘；花里胡哨的外套混搭聚焦全场目光的柠檬黄、朱红、血红色等各种艳色套装，就和她粗鲁的措辞一样刺目。她奉行女天气预报员和新闻播音员的那套女性魅力规则：她的无袖连衣裙宣示着女性裸露手臂的权利，去年11月她在特朗普大厦(Trump Tower)游说拉票时穿的那件褶边金色外套则代表女性有权穿得像装饰金边的床幔一样。但是时间对康韦很残酷。一度人们或许还可以用“活泼”这样的词来形容她，特朗普上任头几个星期后，她那张严重缺觉、顶着黑眼圈的脸看起来像迅猛龙一样凶。我迫不及待地想看看她接下来会穿什么。
Whatever about “dressing sharp”.It must take a concerted effort, a willingness even, to look so collectively dreadful.It's also in keeping with the evolution (or should that be devolution?) of world-leader style.
不管“衣着笔挺”意味着什么，白宫员工必定需要一起努力、甚至抱着强大决心，才能集体穿得如此可怕。这还与世界领袖衣着风格的进化（或者我们该说退化？）保持了一致。
Similarly, British prime minister Theresa May's affection for a voluminous tartan suit by Vivienne Westwood has been much discussed in recent weeks.As with the fabled leopard-print shoes in which she strode to power, May has worn the suits in moments of political—and personal—vulnerability, to announce her determination to lead the Conservative party, for example, or lay down a challenging Brexit strategy.Like Spicer's tie, the tartan suit has proven a nifty decoy: capable of sucking up headlines and loud enough to distract from the political business of the day.
类似的，英国首相特里萨·梅(Theresa May)钟爱的一套Vivienne Westwood宽松款格子呢西装最近也受到了热议。就像在大步迈向权力时穿着已经成为传说的豹纹鞋一样，梅总是在容易遭受政治攻击或者人身攻击的时候穿上这套西装，比如在她宣布决定领导保守党时，或者在制定引起争议的英国退欧策略时。就像斯派塞的领带一样，事实证明梅的这套格子呢西装是一个绝佳的诱饵：不仅能够吸引报纸头条，还因为足够引人注目，能够分散人们对当日的政治事务的注意力。
It may look daft, but the wacky wardrobe is a formidable weapon: bad clothes stimulate alternative conversations, they're diverting and normalising.Conway's flowerpot hats are awful, Bannon's flak jacket is filthy and Spicer's ties are plain obnoxious, but they all throw light on the individual that wears them.They give the wearer personality.Even more significantly, the clothes are humanising: one could almost feel sorry for Spicer; while Bannon's gorilla-like bearing has become as morbidly fascinating as his guerrilla-style of governance.It's all quite stupefying to behold—which, presumably, is the point.
古怪的着装可能看起来很傻，但这是一种强大的武器：糟糕的着装会制造另类的话题，不仅转移注意力，还变得正常化。康韦的花盆形帽子很难看，班农的飞行员夹克看起来很脏，斯派塞的领带简直令人作呕，但这些着装都是穿着它们的人的注解，都赋予了穿着者个性。更重要的是，这些着装带来了人情味：人们几乎要为斯派塞感到难过了；而班农大猩猩一样的举止变得和他游击队式的治理风格一样，有了一种诡异的迷人感。这些衣装看起来令人目瞪口呆——这大概就是重点所在。
