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发明巨无霸汉堡的麦当劳老店主逝世,享年98岁

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2016年12月07日

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In April 1967, hamburger lovers in Uniontown, Pa., south of Pittsburgh, met a newer, bigger burger. Introduced by a local McDonald’s, it was called the Big Mac, and for 45 cents it delivered, as a 1970s jingle would have it, “two all-beef patties, special sauce, lettuce, cheese, pickles, onions on a sesame-seed bun.”

1967年4月,位于宾夕法尼亚州匹兹堡南部尤宁敦(Uniontown)的一位汉堡爱好者见到了一种更新、更大的汉堡。它由当地的麦当劳(McDonald’s)推出,被称为巨无霸(Big Mac)。就像70年代的广告歌曲里唱的,只要45美分,你就可以得到“铺在带芝麻的圆面包上的两块纯牛肉饼、特制酱料、生菜、奶酪、泡菜和洋葱”。

Response was positive. A year later, the Big Mac was on the menu at McDonald’s restaurants all over the United States. By 1969, it accounted for 19 percent of the company’s total sales. Today, the company sells about 550 million Big Macs annually in the United States alone, and millions more in 100 countries around the world.

市场反响非常好。一年后,巨无霸就登上了美国所有麦当劳店的菜单。至1969年,它已经占到公司整体销售额的19%。现在,这家公司每年单单在美国就能卖出5.5亿个巨无霸,在世界其他100多个国家还能卖出成百上千万个。

Jim Delligatti, the McDonald’s franchise owner who invented the Big Mac, died on Monday at his home in Fox Chapel, Pa. He was 98. The death was confirmed by his son Michael.

本周一,发明巨无霸汉堡的麦当劳特许经销商吉姆·德利加蒂(Jim Delligatti)在位于宾夕法尼亚州福克斯查珀尔(Fox Chapel)的家中逝世,享年98岁。这个消息得到了他的儿子迈克尔(Michael)的确认。

Mr. Delligatti, who opened the first McDonald’s in western Pennsylvania in 1957, owned about a dozen franchises in the Pittsburgh area by the mid-1960s, but he struggled to compete with the Big Boy and Burger King chains.

德利加蒂于1957年开了西宾夕法尼亚州的第一家麦当劳店。至60年代中期,他在匹兹堡地区已经拥有了十来家特许经销店,不过与大男孩(Big Boy)和汉堡王(Burger King)的竞争很激烈。

He proposed to company executives that they add a double-patty hamburger to the McDonald’s menu, something along the lines of the Big Boy, that could put a dent in sales of Burger King’s Whopper.

他向公司高管提议学习大男孩餐厅的做法,在麦当劳的菜单上增加一种双层肉饼汉堡,抢夺汉堡王推出的皇堡(Whopper)的市场份额。

He met with resistance. Top executives worried that any addition to the limited McDonald’s menu would gum up the works, and that a higher-priced burger — the basic McDonald’s hamburger cost just 18 cents — would alienate customers. After lobbying by Ralph Lanphar, a regional manager in Columbus, Ohio, headquarters gave Mr. Delligatti permission to test the Big Mac in Uniontown, using only McDonald’s ingredients.

他遇到了阻力。高层领导担心在有限的麦当劳菜单上增加新品会把事情搞砸,也担心定价更高的汉堡——麦当劳基础汉堡的价格当时只要18美分——会吓跑顾客。经过俄亥俄州哥伦布市区域经理拉尔夫·兰帕尔(Ralph Lanphar)的游说,麦当劳总部批准德利加蒂在尤宁敦试售巨无霸汉堡,不过只能使用麦当劳自己的现有原料。

Two patties, etc., did not fit on a standard McDonald’s bun, so Mr. Delligatti went rogue, ordering a large sesame-seeded bun from a local baker. He split it in three and assembled the Big Mac as the world knows it today, with a special sauce of his own devising.

但两块肉饼与麦当劳常规的圆面包无法匹配,所以德利加蒂使了点手段,向当地的一个面包师傅那里订购了尺寸更大的芝麻圆面包。他把汉堡分为三层,用各种原料做成今天世人所知的巨无霸汉堡,其中添加了他独家调制的酱料。

It was introduced on April 22, 1967, with newspaper ads describing it as “made with two freshly ground patties, tangy melted cheese, crisp lettuce, pickle and our own Special Sauce.”

这款汉堡在1967年4月22日上市,报纸上刊登的广告将它描述为“用新鲜的肉饼、味道浓郁的融化奶酪、脆嫩的生菜、泡菜和我们自己特制的酱料制成”。

“It wasn’t like discovering the light bulb,” Mr. Delligatti told John F. Love, the author of “McDonald’s: Behind the Arches” (1986). “The bulb was already there. All I did was screw it in the socket.”

“这不像是发明电灯,”德利加蒂对1986年出版的《麦当劳:拱门之下》(McDonald’s: Behind the Arches)一书的作者约翰·F·洛夫(John F. Love)讲道。“灯泡已经有了。我所做的只是把它插到插口里。”

Michael James Delligatti was born on Aug. 2, 1918, in Uniontown. His father, James, held a variety of jobs, from farrier to candy maker, and the family moved often. His mother, the former Lucille Dandrea, was a homemaker.

迈克尔·詹姆士·德利加蒂(Michael James Delligatti)1918年8月2日出生在尤宁敦。他的父亲詹姆士做过包括蹄铁工和糖果制造在内的各种工作,家里经常搬家。他的母亲露西尔·丹德烈亚(Lucille Dandrea)是家庭主妇。

After graduating from Fairmont High School in West Virginia, Mr. Delligatti held a variety of jobs before entering the Army in 1942. He served in Europe with the 26th Infantry Division, known as the Yankee Division.

从西弗吉尼亚的费尔蒙特高中(Fairmont High School)毕业后,德利加蒂做过各种工作,然后在1942年参军。他随第26步兵师——也被称为洋基师——在欧洲服役。

He worked a succession of odd jobs on returning home before hitchhiking to Southern California, where he worked at several drive-in restaurants and managed a Big Boy, whose feature hamburger with special sauce made an impression.

回乡之后,他做过一系列零工,然后搭便车去了南加州。在那里,他在好几家免下车餐馆工作过,还管理过一家大男孩餐厅,后者有特制酱料的特色汉堡给他留下了深刻的印象。

In 2012, a corporate chef for McDonald’s demonstrated, in a video, how to make the Big Mac Special Sauce, using mayonnaise, sweet pickle relish, yellow mustard, white wine vinegar, garlic powder, onion powder and paprika.

2012年,麦当劳的厨师在一段视频中展示了如何制作巨无霸汉堡的特制酱料,他使用了蛋黄酱、酸黄瓜酱、黄芥末、白葡萄酒醋、大蒜粉、洋葱粉和红辣椒粉。

In 1953, Mr. Delligatti and a friend, John Sweeney, combined their last names and opened a drive-in restaurant in Pittsburgh, Delney’s.

1953年,德利加蒂和朋友约翰·斯威尼(John Sweeney)一起在匹兹堡开了一家免下车餐厅德尔尼家(Delney’s),这个名字融合了两位合伙人的姓。

While attending a restaurant trade show in Chicago in 1955, Mr. Delligatti became interested in the McDonald’s booth. He then visited a new McDonald’s in Illinois.

1955年在芝加哥参加一场餐饮行业展时,德利加蒂对麦当劳的展位产生了兴趣。接着,他拜访了麦当劳在伊利诺伊州的一家新店。

He became one of the company’s earliest franchisees, opening a McDonald’s in Pittsburgh in 1957. He went on to open 47 more over the next 25 years.

他成了麦当劳最早的特许经销商之一,于1957年在匹兹堡开了一家麦当劳店。在接下来的25年时间里,他又相继开出47家麦当劳店。

Along the way, he began serving a hot breakfast to local steelworkers coming off the night shift. As with the Big Mac, the Hotcakes and Sausage Meal became part of the national McDonald’s menu.

在这个过程中,他开始给当地下晚班的炼钢工人提供一种热乎的早餐。就像巨无霸汉堡一样,猪柳热香饼套餐后来也上了全国各个麦当劳餐厅的菜单。

The Big Mac remains his legacy, celebrated in song and story. In 1986, The Economist introduced its Big Mac Index, which shows whether a currency is overvalued or undervalued based on the cost of a Big Mac in one country relative to the cost in another.

巨无霸汉堡依然是他的遗产,在歌曲和故事里被颂扬。1986年,《经济学家》(The Economist)曾推出巨无霸指数(Big Mac Index),通过将巨无霸汉堡在一个国家的价格与另一个国家的相比,来判断一种货币的币值是被高估还是低估。

With backing from McDonald’s, Mr. Delligatti opened the Big Mac Museum Restaurant in North Huntingdon, Pa., in 2007,with a 14-foot-tall Big Mac sculpture as its centerpiece.

在麦当劳的支持下,德利加蒂于2007年在宾夕法尼亚州的北亨廷登(North Huntingdon)开设了巨无霸博物馆餐厅(Big Mac Museum Restaurant),它的中心装饰是一座14英尺(约4.3米)高的巨无霸汉堡雕塑。

In addition to his son Michael, Mr. Delligatti is survived by his wife, the former Eleanor Carmody, known as Ellie; another son, James; five grandchildren; and eight great-grandchildren.

除了儿子迈克尔,德利加蒂身后还留下了妻子埃莉诺·卡莫迪(Eleanor Carmody)——大家叫她埃莉——另一个儿子詹姆士,以及5个孙(女)和8个重孙(女)。

Last week, McDonald’s began testing two new versions of the Big Mac in Texas and central Ohio: a Mac Jr. and a supersize Grand Mac. Big Mac, in other words, might become Middle Mac. But the sales remain huge, leading many to believe that Mr. Delligatti, as its inventor, must have reaped a windfall worth billions.

上周,麦当劳开始在德克萨斯州和俄亥俄州中部试售两个新版本的巨无霸汉堡:小巨无霸(Mac Jr. )和超大号的超巨无霸(Grand Mac)。换句话说,巨无霸有可能会变成了中巨无霸(Middle Mac)。始终可观的销量让许多人觉得作为它的发明者,德利加蒂肯定获益颇丰。

Not so. “All I got was a plaque,” he told The Pittsburgh Post-Gazette in 2007.

情况并非如此。“我得到的只有一个匾额,”他在2007年对《匹兹堡邮报》(The Pittsburgh Post-Gazette)说。
 


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