双语：如何打造欧洲恨天高复古发型

Back in the 1770s, stylish women from all walks of life favored soaring manes. But these towering creations weren’t wigs. Using a variety of ingenious tricks, women made their real hair look like that—and they did it all without mousse, gel, or hairspray.

早在18世纪70年代，各行各业的时尚女性都青睐冲天高的盘发。但这些高耸的发型作品不是假发。利用多种多样的独创技巧，女性用真发拗出这般发型，全程不用摩丝、啫喱和发胶。

Members of the French aristocracy first adopted the “bigger is better” hair trend, which quickly made its way to England. The complexity of the styles showed that the wearer had both the leisure-time to devote to her hair, and most often the wealth to employ a professional hairdresser or accomplished lady’s maid to achieve it.

法国贵族成员率先追随“越大越好”的发型趋势，很快便一路流传到英国。发型纷繁复杂，梳此发型者得有足够的闲暇时光打理头发，更多情况下，有钱人雇佣专业发型师或者技艺娴熟的贴身侍女来打造发型。

The first step toward ensuring their updos would stay, well, up, was to start with semi-dirty hair. A substance called pomatum, generally made at home by combining an animal fat and fragrant herbs or oils, was applied to the hair, followed by a dusting of powder. Hair was then brushed to ensure the powder and pomatum were evenly distributed.

确保发髻可以高高盘在头顶，第一步得先从蓬乱不净的头发着手。把一种润发油涂抹到头发上，这种物质通常是家庭自制的，由动物脂肪和芳香的草药或油脂混合而成，然后再盖一层粉末。接着梳理头发，确保粉末和润发油充分搅合、均匀分布到头发。

Think of the pomatum as a rich, deep conditioner applied as a kind of scalp massage, followed by the powder as a dry shampoo. This was a process women repeated nearly every night.

把这种润发油当做丰盈滋养的护法素，涂抹到头发上给头皮作按摩，随后施以粉末，作干洗香波之用。这一过程女性几乎每晚都重复一遍。

More powder was added after "cleansing" to achieve the era’s coveted hue (dusty white—so chic). Hair was then wrapped around hand-sewn pillows ("rollers" and "cushions") placed on top of the head. Once the desired height was achieved, a lady could make it look even more fashionable by adding fake curls or braids, or by dressing it up with ribbons and flowers.

“洗净”后，拍上更多的粉末，达到那个年代推崇的色彩效果(灰白色，多时髦)。然后把头发缠绕在高置头顶、手工缝制的发枕上(“发卷”和“发垫”)。一旦达到预想高度，女士可以加上假卷和辫子，或者饰以发带和鲜花，这样好看起来更时尚。