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纽约时装周在遵守社交距离的条件下回归

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2020年09月21日

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New York Fashion Week returns with social distance

纽约时装周在遵守社交距离的条件下回归

It is looking to be a fashion month like no other. The coronavirus pandemic has upended the traditional runway format, and in its place a mix of virtual and, in some cases, physical shows with limited audience numbers has started to roll out.

这是一个与众不同的时尚月。冠状病毒流行病颠覆了传统的走秀模式,取而代之的是一场观众人数有限的虚拟秀,以及在某些情况下的实体秀。

New York Fashion Week (NYFW) arrived first, running from September 13 to 17 ahead of London, Milan and Paris.

纽约时装周(NYFW)最先到来,从9月13日持续到17日,排在伦敦、米兰和巴黎之前。

纽约时装周在遵守社交距离的条件下回归

Organizers adapted to circumstances by hosting a number of outdoor events, and Jason Wu opened the schedule with a runway show on the rooftop of Spring Studios in Manhattan. He showed his Spring-Summer 2021 collection to a socially distanced crowd of just 30 people, sending models such as Indya Moore down a plant-filled set inspired by the Mexican town of Tulum.

主办方通过举办一些户外活动来适应环境,吴季刚在曼哈顿春天工作室的屋顶上举办了一场时装秀,拉开了日程。他展示了自己的2021春夏系列,当时的观众只有30人,并保持社会距离,让英迪亚·摩尔等模特沿着一个充满植物的布景走了下来,这个布景的灵感来自墨西哥的图伦镇。

纽约时装周在遵守社交距离的条件下回归

Returning designers include Anna Sui and Chromat, with digital presentations, while a number of notable NYFW regulars like Michael Korsdidn't participate this time around.

回归(时装周)的设计师包括安娜·苏和宙马特,他们都进行了数字化展示,而迈克尔·科尔斯等著名的纽约时装周常客这次没有参加。

Meanwhile, popular social media app TikTok is looking to engage Gen-Z audiences through its own online fashion month, partnering with labels such as Louis Vuitton, Alice + Olivia and Saint Laurent, among others, to livestream runway shows and present capsule collections.

与此同时,广受欢迎的社交媒体应用TikTok也希望通过自己的在线时尚月来吸引Z世代的观众,与路易威登、爱丽丝+奥利维亚和圣罗兰等品牌合作,直播时装秀和展示迷你系列。

To broadcast the virtual events at NYFW, the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) created Runway360, a digital platform to show new collections or other creative projects. And although the usually star-studded fashion week will be wholly different this year, the switch to virtual may also make for more sustainable presentations -- a recent report by Ordre, which specializes in online showrooms, found that international fashion weeks emit the same volume of greenhouse gases annually as a small country.

为了在纽约时装秀上播放这些虚拟活动,美国时装设计师协会(CFDA)创建了Runway360,一个展示新收藏或其他创意项目的数字平台。尽管通常明星云集的时装周今年将完全不同,但转向虚拟化也可能使展示更具可持续性——专门从事在线展示的Ordre最近的一份报告发现,国际时装周每年排放的温室气体量与小国相当。

Many people are still spending a lot of time at home due to the global pandemic, but judging by some of the collections this season, designers are hoping that by spring 2021 our lives will demand glamorous ensembles.

由于全球流行病,许多人仍有很多时间待在家里,但从本季的一些系列来看,设计师们希望到2021年春季,我们的生活将需要迷人的套装。

纽约时装周在遵守社交距离的条件下回归

Wu wasn't the only designer with an escapist mindset. Dreams of better times and of jetting off to far-flung oases were visible in several collections, from Badgley Mischka's bright and luxurious gowns to Naeem Khan's intricate hand-beaded tops and dresses.

吴季刚并不是唯一一个逃避现实的设计师。从贝格利·米施卡明亮奢华的礼服,到纳伊姆·可汗复杂的手工串珠上衣和连衣裙,人们可以在几个时装系列中看到对美好时光的梦想和乘飞机飞往遥远的绿洲的梦想。

NYFW's digital format offers emerging designers a chance to shine without having to invest in expensive live shows. Ten new American brands showed this week, including former Yeezy designer Maisie Schloss, who created a collection for her label Maisie Wilen featuring larger-than-life boots and shimmery tinfoil-like yet fluid dresses.

纽约时装周的数字形式为新兴设计师提供了一个不必投资昂贵的现场表演就能脱颖而出的机会。本周,10个新的美国品牌参展,其中包括前Yeezy设计师麦茜·施洛斯,她为自己的品牌麦茜·威伦设计了一个系列,以具有传奇色彩的靴子和闪闪发光的锡纸状连衣裙为特色。


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