CNN时尚生活志：香奈儿 No.5的故事
CNNANCHOR
CNN主播
The influence of France on global fashion is undeniable. Chanel made perfume a fashion statement unto itself and Chanel No. 5 a symbol of French style. As part of our special Eye on France coverage, Fionnuala Sweeney previews the new version of the legendary scent ahead of its launch later this year.
法国对全球时尚的影响力毋庸置疑。香奈儿把香水变成了它的时尚宣言，而香奈儿五号则成了一种法，式情调的象征。在我们的《聚焦法国》特别报道里，费欧纽拉?史威尼抢在这瓶着名香水的新版本于今年下半年推山之前，先去体验了一番。
FIONNUALA SWEENEY, CNN CORRESPONDENT
CNN特派员 费欧纽拉·史威尼
Contained in these bottles, the sweet smell of success from one of France's most iconic exports. It's 87 years since Chanel's original No. 5 first filtered through the nostrils of Paris society, and in today's global market, worth an estimated $34 billion a year, it remains the world's best-selling perfume. The company won't disclose sales figures，but at $100 for a 50 milliliter bottle, they have to be substantial.
这些瓶子里装着成功的甜美气息，是法国最经典的外销商品。自从香奈儿五号在巴黎社交圈里首度飘香以来，至今已过了87年。在当今的全球市场里，这款香水的价值据估计为每年340亿美元，仍然是全世界最畅销的香水。香奈儿不愿透露销售数据，可是一瓶50毫升装的香水售价100美元，可见销售额必然相当巨大。
JACQUES POLGES, MASTER PERFUMER, CHANEL
香奈儿香水师 贾克·波巨
It's a fragrance that is...that used the best ingredients, and then the smell of it, whatever you might find in it, remains mysterious. There is a mystery, and I think that 5 has this quality.
这种香氛……使用了最佳的成分，而且它的味道，不论你感受到的是什么，都带有一股神秘的气息。香氛贵在神秘，我认为五号就有这种特质。
FIONNUALA SWEENEY, CNN CORRESPONDENT
CNN特派员 费欧纽拉·史威尼
No. 5 was first released in 1921. It was the vision of legendary couturier Gabriel Coco Chanel. Together with master perfumer Ernest Beaux, she melded fashion with fragrance and revolutionized the industry.
香奈儿五号最早于1921年推出，这要归功于时装设计师嘉伯丽·可可·香奈儿的远见。她与香水师恩尼斯·鲍携手合作，把时分成与香氛融合在一起，从此彻底改变了时尚产业。
JACQUES POLGES, MASTER PERFUMER, CHANEL
香奈儿香水师 贾克·波巨
Mademoiselle Chanel was the first couturier to create a fragrance. No. 5 is the grammar of her style.
香奈儿女士是第一位制作香水的时装设计师。五号正是属于她的风格语法。
FIONNUALA SWEENEY, CNN CORRESPONDENT
CNN特派员 费欧纽拉·史威尼
Mademoiselle Chanel died in 1971, but her legacy has been meticulously cared for, particularly when it comes to her cherished No. 5. The precise formula remains a closely guarded secret and completely unchanged from the original. For generations, the key ingredients of rose and jasmine have been harvested from the same fields outside the southern town of Grasse.
香奈儿女士在1971年去世，但她留下的遗产获得了精心的照顾，尤其是她心爱的五号香水。这款香水的调配方式仍是该公司严格保守的秘密，而且自从当初的原始版本以来就从来不曾改变过。好几代以来，玫瑰与莱莉这两种关键原料一直都采自格拉斯南方小镇郊区的同一片田地上。
CHRISTOPHER SHELDRAKE, DEPUTY PERFUMER, CHANEL
香奈儿副香水师 克里斯多夫·薛爵克
This is extremely concentrated rose, and I think in the smallest bottle of No. 5 there is at least the extract of a dozen roses. Another example is iris, iris root, and it might not look very exciting, but when the lid comes off this, the power is absolutely incredible. And this is currently the most expensive ingredient, I would say, in perfumery. What is this? It's about $80,000 a kilo.
这是高度浓缩的玫瑰水，在五号香水的小瓶子里至少有一打攻珑的精华。另一种成分是鸢尾花的根部过种成分看起来可能没什么了不起，可是一旦打开瓶盖，它散友出来的香氛实在令人难以置信我敢说这是目前香水界里最昂贵的原料。价格是多少呢?约一千克8万美元。
FIONNUALA SWEENEY, CNN CORRESPONDENT
CNN特派员 费欧纽拉·史威尼
Each bottle is hand-finished and therefore unique, sealed with a strip of ox bladder, a cotton bow and a wax stamp. Steeped in tradition, this is not a perfume to be meddled with, so this autumn should see quite a stir in the department stores. Sitting in mademoiselle's old apartment, Jacques Polges, the current master perfumer at Chanel, has dared to create what will be only the fourth interpretation of the original-No. 5 Eau Premiére.
每个瓶子都是手工打造的，所以独一无二。完工后用一片牛的膀胱组织封上，加上棉布蝴蝶结，盖上蜡印这款香水浸润着深厚的传统，绝不可随意摆弄。所以，今年秋季百货公司应该会出现一阵狂潮。香奈儿现任香水师贾克·波巨坐在香奈儿女上的旧公寓里，大胆地对原版五号香水进行了第四次诠释，并称为 "No. 5 Eau Premiére"。
JACQUES POLGES, MASTER PERFUMER, CHANEL
香奈儿香水师 贾克·波巨
I would describe [it] as a light, fresh, transparent version of No. 5.
我会说它是一款比较轻柔、淡薄而且透明的五号香水。
CHRISTOPHER SHELDRAKE, DEPUTY PERFUMER, CHANEL
香奈儿副香水师 克里斯多夫·薛爵克
And the idea is that this new version is going to last well into the future, and Mademoiselle Chanel... one of her key codes was, in fact, timelessness.
我们的构想是这个新版本可以流传很久。香奈儿女士的一个关键信念就是永恒。
JACQUES POLGES, MASTER PERFUMER, CHANEL
香奈儿香水师 贾克·波巨
We are in the fashion world, but we are trying to obtain fashion that doesn't [go] out of fashion.
我们身处时尚界里，但我们想要迫求永不过时的时尚。
FIONNUALA SWEENEY, CNN CORRESPONDENT
CNN特派员 费欧纽拉·史威尼
These days, most perfumes come and quickly waft away. Few linger in the memory. Whatever the success of the new version, the original will continue its journey of seduction. Not everyone can afford a designer dress, but with just a few drops of perfume, every woman can claim a little of Coco Chanel's timeless style.
在当前这个时代，大多数香水都是稍纵即逝的，很少能够长存在大众的记忆里。不论这个新版本能够取得多大的成绩，原版的五号香水仍将继续魅惑世人。不是每个人都买得起设计师服饰，但只要滴几滴香水，每个女人都可以沾染一点可可?香奈儿的永恒风格。
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