费列罗当家巧克力酱Nutella“致癌”？！沉寂了半年的一份报告“诈尸”

02 费列罗当家巧克力酱Nutella“致癌”？！沉寂了半年的一份报告“诈尸”

在餐桌上美味了半个多世纪的Nutella榛子巧克力酱，最近陷入了“致癌”风波……

甜食控一定都了解，如果要选出全世界最有名的巧克力酱，那必定是Nutella（能多益），没有之一。

这款巧克力酱是全球第四大巧克力制造商Ferrero（费列罗）的明星产品，自1963年面市以来就融化了无数甜食控、巧克力控的芳心。

Instagram上 #nutellalove 话题的讨论量已经破10万。这款产品简直称得上酱料界的缪斯女神，激发了美食爱好者源源不断的灵感。

不过最近却有新闻称，纵横餐桌半个多世纪的Nutella竟然有致癌风险？甚至正在从超市下架？

据Quartz报道：

Nutella, the popular hazelnut spread, is being removed from supermarket shelves around the world as a result of a report that suggested one of its ingredients, palm oil, is linked with cancer.

人气榛子酱料Nutella正在全世界范围内的超市货架上下架，原因是有报道称它的配料之一——棕榈油——与癌症的发病有关。

Already, one of Italy's larger grocery chain, Coop, has stopped selling the spread, according to the BBC.The European Food Safety Authority report, released in May 2016, said the palm oil in spreads such as Nutella was more likely to have carcinogenic components—including Glycidyl fatty acid esters— than other vegetable oils.It's unclear why the eight-month-old report is only now causing panic.

BBC称，意大利最大的零售连锁店Coop已经停止销售这款酱料。欧洲食品健康局在2016年5月发布的报告中称，和其他植物油相比，Nutella这样的酱料中所含的棕榈油更可能含致癌物（包括缩水甘油脂肪酸酯）。尚不清楚为何8个月前发布的报告会在现在引起恐慌。

以Nutella为原材料制作的甜品

回顾欧洲食品健康局那时发布的报告，我们发现，其实里面并未提及Nutella或者其他品牌的酱料。这份名为Process contaminants in vegetable oils and foods（植物油和食物中的加工残留物）的文章是这么说的：

Glycerol-based process contaminants found in palm oil, but also in other vegetable oils, margarines and some processed foods, raise potential health concerns for average consumers of these foods in all young age groups, and for high consumers in all age groups.

棕榈油和其他植物油、人造奶油和其他加工食品中发现了含有甘油基的残余物，这增加了年轻普通消费者和全年龄段忠诚消费者的健康担忧。

EFSA assessed the risks for public health of the substances: glycidyl fatty acid esters (GE), 3-monochloropropanediol (3-MCPD), and 2-monochloropropanediol (2-MCPD) and their fatty acid esters.The substances form during food processing, in particular, when refining vegetable oils at high temperatures (approx.200°C).

欧洲食品健康局评估了以下物质对公众健康的风险：缩水甘油脂肪酸酯（GE）、3-氯-1,2-丙二醇（3-MCPD）、2-氯-1,3-丙二醇（2-MCPD）以及它们的脂肪酸酯化合物。这些物质在食物加工过程中产生，尤其是在高温下（约200℃）提炼植物油时。

The highest levels of GE, as well as 3-MCPD and 2-MCPD (including esters) were found in palm oils and palm fats, followed by other oils and fats.For consumers aged three and above, margarines and ‘pastries and cakes' were the main sources of exposure to all substances.

在棕榈油和棕榈脂中GE、3-MCPD、2-MCPD及其脂肪酸酯化合物的含量最高，含量次之的为其他油类和脂类。对于3岁及以上消费者来说，人造奶油和“甜点及蛋糕”是这些物质最主要的摄入来源。

EFSA's expert Panel on Contaminants in the Food Chain (CONTAM) considered information on the toxicity of glycidol (the parent compound of GE) for its risk assessment of GE, assuming a complete conversion of the esters into glycidol following ingestion.

欧洲食品健康局研究食品链中污染物的专家小组在对GE进行风险评估时，考虑了缩水甘油（也就是GE的母物质）的毒性，提出了一个完整的在吸收后、从酯类到缩水甘油转化的过程。

Dr Helle Knutsen, Chair of the CONTAM Panel, said: “There is sufficient evidence that glycidol is genotoxic and carcinogenic, therefore the CONTAM Panel did not set a safe level for GE.”

研究食品链中污染物专家小组组长Helle Knutsen说：“可以充分证明缩水甘油具有基因毒性，并且致癌。因此我们没有给GE一个安全限值。”

如果看看Nutella的配料表我们便会发现，人们对于这款榛子巧克力酱或致癌的惶恐缘何而起了。

在reddit.com上，一名网友制作了一张示意图来说明Nutella的主要成分。我们可以直观看到，一瓶巧克力酱中到底有多少糖和棕榈油——它们占据了相当大的比例。

网友“MrFlow”制作的示意图，自上而下依次为：棕榈油、脱脂奶粉、可可粉、榛子碎和糖。

Nutella坚持使用棕榈油的原因或与成本有关，USA TODAY直接指出：

According to Reuters, Ferrero may be hesitant to phase out palm oil, in part because it's the cheapest vegetable oil on the market.

根据路透社报道，费列罗可能还在犹豫是否要淘汰棕榈油，部分原因是它是市面上最便宜的植物油了。

以Nutella为原材料制作的甜品

面对负面传闻，生产商费列罗自然也没有坐以待毙，在第一时间出面澄清。据ABC报道：

Ferrero wants to assure its consumers that Nutella and other Ferrero products that contain palm oil are safe.

费列罗想要向消费者们保证，Nutella和其他含有棕榈油的费列罗产品都是安全的。

When palm oil, produced and processed to minimalize the presence of these contaminants, is refined correctly, it contains a lower level of contaminants than other vegetable oils that have been treated at excessive temperatures.This case applies to the palm oil used by Ferrero, who for years has been able to significantly reduce the levels of contaminants in its palm oil compared to conventional palm oils available on the market, similar to the levels found in other vegetable oils that have been processed properly, in line with EFSA's parameters.

棕榈油的生产和加工中已经将这些污染物减少到最低限度，并且被完善地精炼过了。和其它经高温处理的植物油相比，它的污染物含量更低。这样的工艺应用于费列罗使用的棕榈油上。和市面上其它的棕榈油相比，我们一直以来都可以显著地将棕榈油的污染物水平降低到更低水平；和其它处理过的植物油相比也是如此。符合欧洲食品健康局标准。

This is due to careful harvesting, from the squeezing in the quickest possible time to the processes and manufacturing at the lowest possible temperatures.We manage all technological-productive factors with the aim to reduce the duration and the temperatures of the processes, thus minimizing the risks of possibly developing or increasing 2MCPD, 3MCPD or GE.

这是依靠仔细的收割，从最快的榨取时间到将过程温度控制得尽可能低。我们控制了一切技术生产的影响因素，来降低生产过程的耗时和温度，因此最大程度地将产生或者增加2MCPD、3MCPD或者GE的可能性降到最低。

Furthermore, our Quality Assurance and Process Control Systems allow us to constantly monitor such factors and guarantee the food safety of our products to the consumer.

此外，我们的质量保证和过程控制系统让我们可以持续地监管这样的影响因素，保证我们呈现给消费者的食品安全。

想安心地吃口东西真的越来越难了。

词汇总结

hazelnut spread

榛子酱

Nutella, the popular hazelnut spread, is being removed from supermarket shelves around the world as a result of a report that suggested one of its ingredients, palm oil, is linked with cancer.

人气榛子酱料Nutella正在全世界范围内的超市货架上下架，原因是有报道称它的配料之一——棕榈油——与癌症的发病有关。

carcinogenic [,kɑːs(ɪ)nə'dʒenɪk]

adj.致癌的；致癌物的

The palm oil in spreads such as Nutella was more likely to have carcinogenic components —including Glycidyl fatty acid esters.

Nutella这样的酱料中所含的棕榈油更可能含致癌物（包括缩水甘油脂肪酸酯）。

phase out

逐步结束；逐步撤出；逐步完成

According to Reuters, Ferrero may be hesitant to phase out palm oil, in part because it's the cheapest vegetable oil on the market.

根据路透社报道，费列罗可能还在犹豫是否要淘汰棕榈油，部分原因是它是市面上最便宜的植物油了。

vegetable oil

植物油

The substances form during food processing, in particular, when refining vegetable oils at high temperatures (approx.200°C).

这些物质在食物加工过程中产生，尤其是在高温下（约200℃）提炼植物油时。

contaminant [kən'tæminənt]

n.(食品)污染物，致污物

It contains a lower level of contaminants than other vegetable oils that have been treated at excessive temperatures.

和其它经高温处理的植物油相比，它的污染物含量更低。