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双语·流动的盛宴 第七章 一项副业的终结

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2022年04月21日

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The End of an Avocation

We went racing together many more times that year and other years after I had worked in the early mornings, and Hadley enjoyed it and sometimes she loved it. But it was not the climbs in the high mountain meadows above the last forest, nor nights coming home to the chalet, nor was it climbing with Chink, our best friend, over a high pass into new country. It was not really racing either. It was gambling on horses. But we called it racing.

Racing never came between us, only people could do that; but for a long time it stayed close to us like a demanding friend. That was a generous way to think of it. I, the one who was so righteous about people and their destructiveness, tolerated this friend that was the falsest, most beautiful, most exciting, vicious, and demanding because she could be profitable. To make it profitable was more than a full-time job and I had no time for that. But I justified it to myself because I wrote it, even though in the end, when everything I had written was lost, there was only one racing story that survived, because it was out in the mails.

I was going to races alone more now and I was involved in them and getting too mixed up with them. I worked two tracks in their season when I could, Auteuil and Enghien. It took full-time work to try to handicap intelligently and you could make no money that way. That was just how it worked out on paper. You could buy a newspaper that gave you that.

You had to watch a jumping race from the top of the stands at Auteuil and it was a fast climb up to see what each horse did and see the horse that might have won and did not, and see why or maybe how he did not do what he could have done. You watched the prices and all the shifts of odds each time a horse you were following would start, and you had to know how he was working and finally get to know when the stable would try with him. He always might be beaten when he tried; but you should know by then what his chances were. It was hard work but at Auteuil it was beautiful to watch each day they raced when you could be there and see the honest races with the great horses, and you got to know the course as well as any place you had ever known. You knew many people finally, jockeys and trainers and owners and too many horses and too many things.

In principle I only bet when I had a horse to bet on but I sometimes found horses that nobody believed in except the men who trained and rode them that won race after race with me betting on them. I stopped finally because it took too much time, I was getting too involved and I knew too much about what went on at Enghien and at the flat racing tracks too.

When I stopped working on the races I was glad but it left an emptiness. By then I knew that everything good and bad left an emptiness when it stopped. But if it was bad, the emptiness filled up by itself. If it was good you could only fill it by finding something better. I put the racing capital back into the general funds and I felt relaxed and good.

The day I gave up racing I went over to the other side of the river and met my friend Mike Ward at the travel desk in the Guaranty Trust which was then at the corner of the rue des Italiens on the Boulevard des Italiens. I was depositing the racing capital but I did not tell that to anyone. I didn’t put it in the checkbook though I still kept it in my head.

“Want to go to lunch?” I asked Mike.

“Sure, kid. Yeah I can do it. What’s the matter? Aren’t you going to the track?”

“No.”

We had lunch at the square Louvois at a very good, plain bistro with a wonderful white wine. Across the square was the Bibliothèque Nationale.

“You never went to the track much, Mike,” I said.

“No. Not for quite a long time.”

“Why did you lay off it?”

“I don’t know,” Mike said. “Yes. Sure I do. Anything you have to bet on to get a kick isn’t worth seeing.”

“Don’t you ever go out?”

“Sometimes to see a big race. One with great horses.”

We spread paté on the good bistro bread and drank the white wine.

“Did you follow them a lot, Mike?”

“Oh yes.”

“What do you see that’s better?”

“Bicycle racing.”

“Really?”

“You don’t have to bet on it. You’ll see.”

“That track takes a lot of time.”

“Too much time. Takes all your time. I don’t like the people.”

“I was very interested.”

“Sure. You make out all right?”

“All right.”

“Good thing to stop,” Mike said.

“I’ve stopped.”

“Hard to do. Listen kid, we’ll go to the bike races sometime.”

That was a new and fine thing that I knew little about. But we did not start it right away. That came later. It came to be a big part of our lives later when the first part of Paris was broken up.

But for a long time it was enough just to be back in our part of Paris and away from the track and to bet on our own life and work, and on the painters that you knew and not try to make your living gambling and call it by some other name. I have started many stories about bicycle racing but have never written one that is as good as the races are both on the indoor and outdoor tracks and on the roads. But I will get the Vélodrome d’Hiver with the smoky light of the afternoon and the high-banked wooden track and the whirring sound the tires made on the wood as the riders passed, the effort and the tactics as the riders climbed and plunged, each one a part of his machine; I will get the magic of the demi-fond, the noise of the motors with their rollers set out behind them that the entraîneurs rode, wearing their heavy crash helmets and leaning backward in their ponderous leather suits, to shelter the riders who followed them from the air resistance, the riders in their lighter crash helmets bent low over their handlebars their legs turning the huge gear sprockets and the small front wheels touching the roller behind the machine that gave them shelter to ride in, and the duels that were more exciting than anything, the put-puting of the motorcycles and the riders elbow to elbow and wheel to wheel up and down and around at deadly speed until one man could not hold the pace and broke away and the solid wall of air that he had been sheltered against hit him.

There were so many kinds of racing. The straight sprints raced in heats or in match races where the two riders would balance for long seconds on their machines for the advantage of making the other rider take the lead and then the slow circling and the final plunge into the driving purity of speed. There were the programs of the team races of two hours, with a series of pure sprints in their heats to fill the afternoon, the lonely absolute speed events of one man racing an hour against the clock, the terribly dangerous and beautiful races of one hundred kilometers on the big banked wooden five-hundred-meter bowl of the Stade Buffalo, the outdoor stadium at Montrouge where they raced behind big motorcycles, Linart, the great Belgian champion that they called “the Sioux” for his profile, dropping his head to suck up cherry brandy from a rubber tube that connected with a hot water bottle under his racing shirt when he needed it toward the end as he increased his savage speed, and the championships of France behind big motors of the six-hundred-and-sixty-meter cement track of the Parc du Prince near Auteuil, the wickedest track of all where we saw that great rider Ganay fall and heard his skull crumple under the crash helmet as you crack an hard-boiled egg against a stone to peel it on a picnic. I must write the strange world of the six-day races and the marvels of the road-racing in the mountains. French is the only language it has ever been written in properly and the terms are all French and that is what makes it hard to write. Mike was right about it, there is no need to bet. But that comes at another time in Paris.

第七章 一项副业的终结

那一年以及后来的那几年,清晨完成了手头的写作,我和妻子曾多次去看赛马。哈德莉乐在其中,有时甚至可以说是对此情有独钟。不过,我们更热衷于爬高山,登上位于森林上方的高原草地,更喜欢晚上回到度假小屋享受温馨的生活,更愿意跟我们的挚友琴科一起翻过高山隘口进入另一个国家。再说,那也不是真正的赛马,而是一种赌博,只是冠以赛马的名称而已。

赛马绝不会在人与人之间制造矛盾——唯有人才能做到这一点。有很长一段时间,它跟我们建立了紧密的联系,如同一位要求很高的朋友(这样看,是很宽宏大量的)。我待人一贯爱憎分明,之所以能够容忍这个极其虚伪、道貌岸然、刺激性大、心怀叵测、贪得无厌的朋友,是因为有利可图。可是,要想赢钱,就得花时间全力以赴,而我没有那么多的时间。不过,我把赌赛马作为题材进行写作,聊以自慰。只可惜我写的这方面的东西均已遗失,只有一篇是因为在邮寄过程之中才得以侥幸存留下来。

此时的我更多的是独自一人去看赛马,全身心地投入,深陷其中不能自拔。在赛马季,只要有可能我就双向出击,到欧特伊赛马场和昂吉安赛马场赌个痛快。如欲克服一切困难,明智地参赌,就得把所有的时间都搭上,即便如此也不一定能稳操胜券。所谓的运筹帷幄仅是纸上谈兵而已,买一份赛马报便可以尽得其妙。

要赌好赛马,你得先到欧特伊赛马场,坐到看台上观看一场障碍赛,还得快速跑到一个位置高的地方看每匹马跳栏的情况,看哪匹马原该取胜却功亏一篑,寻找出原因,看它跳栏时在哪些地方有失误之处。如果你在一匹马身上押了赌注,就得细心观察它的一切情况,观察赔率的上下浮动,观察它的表现,最终一定要搞清驯马师何时让它上场一试身手。它上场,很可能会被击败,你得知道它的胜算有多少。这是一件苦差事,但你会乐在其中。每天到欧特伊赛马场观看那些骏马在跑道上你追我赶,那可是地地道道的比赛,会叫你感到开心。你终将对那片场地了如指掌,就像熟悉一位老朋友一样。你终将认识许许多多的人(骑师、驯马师、马主人),熟悉许许多多的马,掌握许许多多的知识。

原则上,我只有在了解了一匹马之后,才肯在它身上下注。有时一匹马上场,没有人相信它会赢,唯独驯马师和骑师对它抱有信心,我把赌注押在它身上,结果连战连捷。最后,我金盆洗手,不再赌赛马了,原因是它太费时间,太耗精力,我对昂吉安赛马场的内幕以及比赛时的秘密了解得太多了。

不再赌赛马固然叫人高兴,但也使我感到空虚。我情知无论做好事还是坏事,一旦中途停止,就一定会感到空虚。如果你停止做一件坏事,空虚感将逐渐自动消失。如果你停止做一件好事,那你得找一件更好的事去做,空虚感才会消失。我把赌赛马的本钱放回到总的积蓄中去,顿时如释重负,感到轻松愉快。

金盆洗手的那天,我溜达到了河对岸,走到意大利人林荫大道的意大利人路,来到设在那条路转弯处的抵押信托公司的旅游服务台前,结果碰到了我的朋友迈克·沃德。当时我正要把赌赛马的本钱存进这家公司,但这件事我没有告诉任何人。我虽然也想过将钱存进银行,然而却没有那样做。

“想一起去吃顿饭吗?”我问迈克。

“当然想,伙计。没一点问题。你这是怎么啦?不去赌赛马啦?”

“不去啦。”

我们走到卢瓦广场的一家普通餐馆进餐,那儿的饭菜十分可口,还有美酒佳酿佐饭。广场对面就是国家图书馆。

“你去赛马场的次数不多呀,迈克。”我说。

“是的。好长时间都没去过了。”

“那你为什么不去呀?”

“我也说不清。”迈克说,“哦,不,其中的原因我是很清楚的。赌赛马纯粹是花钱买刺激,划不来!”

“你再也不到赛马场去了吗?”

“遇到大型比赛,参赛的是良种骏马,还是要去看看的。”

我们一边神聊,一边在餐馆自制的可口面包上抹鱼酱,一边喝着白葡萄酒。

“你曾经一度对赛马很着迷,是不是,迈克?”

“哦,是的。”

“你觉得有什么比赛比赛马更值得看呢?”

“自行车赛更值得看。”

“真的吗?”

“看自行车赛不用花钱押赌注。你看了就知道了。”

“赌赛马太耗时间。”

“耗的时间太多,把你所有的时间都占去了。还有,我不喜欢那儿的人。”

“我过去对赛马十分感兴趣。”

“的确如此。现在情况好了吧?”

“现在都好了。”

“只要放弃了就好。”迈克说。

“我已经不再去了。”

“这样做很不容易呦。喂,伙计,哪天咱们去看自行车比赛。”

这是一种新生事物,一种精彩的赛事,我还知之甚少。如果现在不开始接触,以后早晚也会接触的。当我们在巴黎旧有的生活方式被打破后,这种新生事物将会成为我们生活中的一个重要组成部分。

不过,有很长一段时间,我们只是满足于现状——蜗居在巴黎的家中,远离赛马场,专心过自己的日子和写作,欣赏欣赏自己熟悉的画作,两耳不闻窗外事,不愿再靠赌博挣钱,哪怕是冠以再好听的名称。至于自行车赛,我已经写过多个短篇;但若论描绘车赛那惊心动魄的实况(或室内赛,或室外赛,或公路赛),我还没有写过一篇。我要写一篇赛车场感怀,写那儿弥漫着烟雾的午后阳光,写那儿高度倾斜的木质车道,写赛手冲过时,车轮在木质车道上飞驰而发出的呼呼声,写赛手在爬坡和俯冲时所采取的措施和策略,写赛手紧贴车身,二者密不可分。我要写中距离车赛的神奇魅力,写摩托车的轰鸣声,写坐在摩托车后拖斗里的陪骑员——那些陪骑员头戴沉重的防撞头盔,穿着笨重的皮夹克,身躯后倾,为跟随在他们后面的赛手挡住迎面袭来的气流,而那些赛手则戴着比较轻巧的防撞头盔,身子低低地伏在车把上,两脚蹬着巨大的链轮,那些小前轮几乎能碰到那辆为他们挡住气流的摩托车后面的拖斗。我要写那无比激动人心的赛手之间的较量——摩托车噗噗噗作响,几个赛手胳膊肘挨胳膊肘,车轮挨着车轮,一会儿爬高,一会儿下冲,闪电般骑了一圈又一圈;最终定会有人掉队,这时,原先被遮挡住的气流便会向他扑来。

车赛形形色色,种类繁多。有激烈抗争的短程赛,或称二人对抗赛——两个赛手会在比赛中稳中求进,有意暂时让对手领先,不慌不忙地骑了一圈又一圈,最后猛地冲刺,以惊人的速度一举夺魁;有全程两小时的团体计时赛;有分阶段的激烈的系列短程赛(这种比赛一赛就是一下午);有单人计时赛,赛手按计时表完成一小时的比赛,纯粹比的是速度;有百公里长途赛,异常危险,但场面壮观(这种比赛在布法罗体育场的圆形赛车场那五百米长的朝里倾斜的木质赛车道上进行);有在蒙鲁日露天体育场举办的对抗赛(赛手跟在摩托车后进行比赛)——这种比赛的冠军是伟大的比利时人利纳尔特,人称“苏族人”(他的脸部侧面看上去像苏族印第安人),快到终点时他会低头用橡皮管喝几口樱桃白兰地(那白兰地盛放在他的赛车服怀里的一个热水瓶里),然后加速,快得像闪电;还有法兰西全国锦标赛(比赛时赛手跟在摩托车后面),在欧特伊附近王子公园的那条六百六十米长的水泥跑道上进行——那条跑道的路况极其恶劣,我们亲眼看见著名的赛车手加耐从车上栽了下来,戴着防护头盔的脑壳啪的一声被摔裂了,就像你在野餐时剥鸡蛋壳把鸡蛋在石头上磕了一下所发出的那种声音。我一定要写那历时六天的车赛所展现的奇异景观,写山间越野赛那扣人心弦的场面。只有用法语写才能将这样的小说写好(所有的有关术语都是法语的),所以我写作时步履维艰。迈克说得对:看自行车赛不用花钱押赌注。但那只是我们在巴黎生活的一个片段。

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