旅行的艺术:对旅行的期待-4

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实地的旅行同我们对它的期待是有差异的，对此观点，我们并不陌生。对旅行持悲观态度的人——德埃桑迪斯应该是一个极佳的典范——因此认为现实总是让人失望。也许，承认实地的旅行和期待中的旅行之间的基本“差异”，这样才会更接近真实，也更有益。

We are familiar with the notion that the reality of travel is not what we anticipate. The pessimistic school, of which Des Esseintes might be an honorary patron, therefore argues that reality must always be disappointing. It may be truer and more rewarding to suggest that it is primarily different .

经历了两个月的期待，在2月的一个晴朗的下午，我和我的同伴抵达了巴巴多斯的格兰特利·亚当斯机场。从下飞机到低矮机场大厅间的距离很短，但却足以让我感到气候的剧烈转变。才几个小时，我就从我所居住的地方来到了一个闷热潮湿的所在，这种天气，在我所居住的地方，五个月后方会来临，而且，闷热潮湿的程度也不会如此难耐。

After two months of anticipation, on a cloudless February mid-afternoon, I touched down, along with my travelling companion, M, at Barbados's Grantley Adams Airport. It was a short walk from the plane to the low airport buildings, but long enough to register a revolution in the climate. In only a few hours, I had travelled to a heat and a humidity that at home would not have occurred for another five months, and even then would never have achieved such intensity.

一切都和想象相异——相形于我的想象，这里的一切简直就让我吃惊。在这之前的几周里，只要想到巴巴多斯岛，萦绕脑际的不外乎是三种恒定的意象，它们是我在阅读一本相关的宣传册和航空时刻表时开始构想并凝固成型的：其一是夕阳下挺立着棕榈树的海滩；其二是一处别墅式的酒店，从落地窗看过去，是铺着木质地板、有着洁白的亚麻床罩的房间；其三呢，则是湛蓝无云的天空。

Nothing was as I had imagined-surprising only if one considers what I had imagined. In the preceding weeks, the thought of the island had circled exclusively around three immobile mental images, assembled during the reading of a brochure and an airline timetable. The first was of a beach with a palm tree against the setting sun. The second was of a hotel bungalow with a view through French doors into a room decorated with wooden floors and white bedlinen. And the third was of an azure sky.

如果有人要问，我自然会承认岛上还有别的东西，只是我无需它们来构建我对巴巴多斯岛的印象。我的行为就像是经常到剧院看演出的观众，仅从背景画布上的一棵橡树或一根陶立克式的柱子便能自然地想象剧台上的一切都发生在舍伍德森林或古罗马。

If pressed, I would naturally have recognized that the island had to include other elements, but I had not needed them in order to build an impression of it. My behaviour was like that of theatre-goers who imagine without difficulty that the actions on stage are unfolding in Sherwood Forest or ancient Rome because the backdrop has been painted with a single branch of an oak or one Doric pillar.

然而，一踏上巴巴多斯岛，我就意识到“巴巴多斯”这一词还应包含太多的内涵。譬如说，一个巨型的储油设施，上面印着英国石油公司的黄绿两色的标志；穿着一尘不染的褐色制服的移民局工作人员坐在用夹板钉起来的箱子上，带着一点好奇，漫不经心地翻阅入境游客的护照（有如一个学者在翻阅图书馆闭架书库里的手稿），而等候入境的游客队伍已排出机场大厅之外，延伸到飞机跑道的边缘；在行李传送带上方印着朗姆酒的广告，在海关的过道上挂着总理像，在迎宾大厅有外币兑换处，在机场大厅之外是成群的出租车司机和导游……如此繁复的景象扑面而来，如果说它们可能对我产生什么影响，那就是它们奇怪地让我更难看到我本想来此一睹的巴巴多斯岛。

But on arrival, a range of things insisted that they too deserved to be included within the fold of the word Barbados. For example, a large petrol storage facility, decorated with the yellow and green logo of British Petroleum, and a small plywood box where an immigration official sat in an immaculate brown suit and gazed with an air of curiosity and unhurried wonder (like a scholar scanning the pages of a manuscript in the stacks of a library) at the passports of a line of tourists that began to stretch out of the terminal and on to the edge of the airfield. There was an advertisement for rum above the baggage carousel, a picture of the Prime Minister in the customs corridor, a bureau de change in the arrivals hall and a confusion of taxi drivers and tour guides outside the terminal building. And if there was a problem with this profusion of images, it was that they made it strangely harder to see the Barbados I had come to find.

在我的预期中，机场与饭店之间是一段空白。从行程安排表的最后一行（很押韵的一句“15点35抵达巴巴多斯2155”）到酒店房间之间本应空无一物。我的脑子里本来空空的，可现在心里却涌起对一些景象的不满，如塑料垫已破烂的行李传送带，堆满烟灰的烟缸上两只翻飞的苍蝇，迎宾厅里转动着的巨型电扇，仪表板有假豹皮镶边的白色出租车，机场外大片荒地上一只无家可归的狗，环形交叉路口立着的“豪华公寓”的广告，一个叫“巴达克电子公司”的工厂，一排用红、绿色铁皮做屋顶的建筑，一辆车子前后车窗间立柱的橡皮上写着的小小的“大众汽车公司，沃尔夫斯堡”的字样，一处不知名的色彩艳丽的灌木丛，一个酒店的接待前台，显示着6个不同地方的时间，墙上还用图钉固定着一张写有“圣诞快乐”的贺卡，而圣诞节已过去了两个月……到达几个小时后，我才慢慢将自己和想象中的酒店房间联系起来，只是我先前没有想到房间里的空调机是如此庞大，也没有料到洗手间只是用塑料贴面板分隔而成，上面还贴着告示，正告客人节约用水。

In anticipation, there had simply been a vacuum between the airport and my hotel. Nothing had existed in my mind between the last line on the itinerary (the beautifully rhythmic 'Arrival BA 2155 at 15.35') and the hotel room. I had had no thought of, and now protested inwardly at the appearance of, a luggage carousel with a frayed rubber mat, two flies dancing above an overflowing ashtray, a giant fan turning inside the arrivals hall, a white taxi with a fake leopard-skin-lined dashboard, a stray dog in a stretch of waste ground beyond the airport, an advertisement for 'Luxury condos' at a roundabout, a factory called 'Bardak Electronics', a row of buildings with red and green tin roofs, a rubber strap in the central pillar of the car upon which was written in very small print 'Volkswagen, Wolfsburg', a brightly coloured bush whose name I didn't know, a hotel reception area which showed the time in six different locations and a card pinned on the wall nearby that read, with two months' delay, 'Merry Christmas'. Only several hours after my arrival did I find myself united with my imagined room, though I had had no prior mental image of its vast air-conditioning unit nor, even if it was welcome, its bathroom, which was made of Formica panels and sternly advised residents not to waste water.

如果说我们往往乐于忘却生活中还有众多的我们期待以外的东西，那么，艺术作品恐怕难逃其咎，因为同我们的想象一样，艺术作品在构型的过程中也有简单化和选择的过程。艺术描述带有极强的简括性，而现实生活中，我们还必须承受那些为艺术所忽略的环节。一本游记，譬如说，可能会告诉我们叙述者“旅行”了一个下午赶到了山城X，而后在山城里的一座建于中世纪的修道院里住了一宿，醒来时已是迷雾中的拂晓。事实上，我们从不可能“旅行”一个下午。我们坐在火车上，腹中刚吃过的午餐在翻腾。座位的罩布颜色发灰。我们看着车窗外的田野，然后又回视车厢内。一种焦虑在我们的意识里盘旋。我们注意到对面座位的行李架上一个行李箱上的标签。我们用一个手指轻轻地敲打窗沿。食指的指甲开裂处勾住了一个线头。天开始下雨了。一颗雨滴沿着蒙满灰尘的车窗玻璃滑下，留下一道泥痕。我们在寻思车票放在哪里。我们又看着窗外的田野。雨还在下。火车终于启动了。火车经过了一座铁桥，然后不明缘故地停了下来。车窗上停着一只苍蝇……所有这些，可能还只不过是“他‘旅行’了一个下午”这一意蕴繁杂却让人误解的句子中的“下午”的第一分钟里发生的一些事件。

If we are inclined to forget how much there is in the world besides that which we anticipate, then works of art are perhaps a little to blame, for in them we find the same process of simplification or selection at work as in the imagination. Artistic accounts involve severe abbreviations of what reality will force upon us. A travel book may tell us, for example, that a narrator journeyed through the afternoon to reach the hill town of X and, after a night in its medieval monastery, awoke to a misty dawn. But we never simply journey through an afternoon. We sit in a train. Lunch digests awkwardly within us. The seat cloth is grey. We look out of the window at a field. We look back inside. A drum of anxieties revolves in consciousness. We notice a luggage label affixed to a suitcase in a rack above the opposing seats. We tap a finger on the window-ledge. A broken nail on an index finger catches a thread. It starts to rain. A drop wends a muddy path down the dust-coated window. We wonder where the ticket might be. We look back out at the field. It continues to rain. At last the train starts to move. It passes an iron bridge, after which it stops inexplicably. A fly lands on the window. And still we might only have reached the end of the first minute of a comprehensive account of the events lurking within the deceptive sentence 'he journeyed through the afternoon'.

如果要求一个讲故事的人给我们提供如此琐屑的细节，他必定很快恼怒不已。遗憾的是，现实生活就像是用这种方式讲故事，用一些重复、不着边际的强调和没有条理的情节惹我们厌烦。它坚持要向我们展示巴达克电子公司，向我们展示车厢里的安全扶杆、无家可归的狗、圣诞卡，还有那只先是停在那个堆满烟灰的烟灰缸边缘，进而停落在烟灰之中的苍蝇。

A story-teller who provided us with such a profusion of details would rapidly grow maddening. Unfortunately, life itself often subscribes to this mode of story-telling, wearing us with repetitions, misleading emphases and inconsequential plotlines. It insists on showing us Bardak Electronics, the safety handle in the car, a stray dog, a Christmas card and a fly that lands first on the rim and then in the centre of a laden ashtray.

知晓了这些事实，我们便不难解释此种怪现状了，那就是在艺术作品和期待中找寻有价值的因素远比从现实生活中找寻来得容易。期待和艺术的想象省略、压缩，甚至切割掉生活中无聊的时段，把我们的注意力直接导向生活中的精彩时分而毋须润饰或造假，结果是，它们所展现的生活气韵生动、井然有序。这种气韵和秩序是我们纷扰错乱的现实生活所不能呈现的。

Which explains the curious phenomenon whereby valuable elements may be easier to experience in art and in anticipation than in reality. The anticipatory and artistic imaginations omit and compress, they cut away the periods of boredom and direct our attention to critical moments and, without either lying or embellishing, thus lend to life a vividness and a coherence that it may lack in the distracting woolliness of the present.

在加勒比海海岛上的第一个晚上，我躺在床上不能入眠，开始回顾自己的旅程（在房间外的小树丛里有蟋蟀的鸣叫，还有虫子活动时发出的声音），现时的纷扰迷乱居然已经开始淡逝，而有些事件则变得明晰起来：原来，在这种意义上，回忆和期待一样，是一种简化和剪辑现实的工具。

As I lay awake in bed on my first Caribbean night looking back on my journey (there were crickets and shufflings in the bushes outside), already the confusion of the present moment began to recede and certain events to assume prominence, for memory was in this respect similar to anticipation: an instrument of simplification and selection.

现时的生活正像是缠绕在一起的长长的胶卷，我们的回忆和期待只不过是选择其中的精彩图片。在我飞往巴巴多斯岛长达九个半小时的旅程中，保存下来的记忆只不过六七个静止的画面。今天仍然留存的画面，便是飞行过程中支在座位上的小餐板。我在机场所有的经历，记忆中留存下来的也不过是手持护照等候审查入关的长长的队伍。我的各种经历已经压缩成一种清晰无误的叙述：我成了一位从伦敦飞来此岛并入住岛上酒店的旅客。

The present might be compared to a long-winded film from which memory and anticipation select photographic highlights. Of my nine-and-a-half-hour flight to the island, active memory retained only six or seven static images. Just one survives today: the in-flight tray. Of my experience at the airport, only an image of the passport line remained accessible. My layers of experience settled into a compact and well-defined narrative: I became a man who had flown in from London and checked into his hotel.

我早早地酣然入睡了，醒来时已是我在加勒比海边的第一个清晨——当然，在这简括的词句背后肯定会有许许多多并不简括的事实。

I fell asleep early and the next morning awoke to my first Caribbean dawn-though there was, inevitably, a lot more beneath these brisk words than that.