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好莱坞著名的明星造型师蕾切尔·佐伊谈10年奥斯卡造型和红毯回归“没有琐碎”

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2024年03月10日

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Rachel Zoe knew the orange dress, folded on a hanger, was the one.
蕾切尔·佐伊知道那件叠在衣架上的橙色连衣裙就是她的真命天子。

It was 20 years ago exactly, days before the Oscars and Zoe — the stylist known at that time mostly for her work at YM magazine, ad campaigns for Tommy Hilfiger, and her work with Britney Spears, Jessica Simpson, and the Backstreet Boys — was going to style an A-list actress for the Academy Awards for the first time.
那是20年前,就在奥斯卡颁奖典礼的前几天,佐伊——这位造型师当时最出名的是她在《YM》杂志的工作,为汤米·希尔费格做的广告,以及她与布兰妮·斯皮尔斯、杰西卡·辛普森和后街男孩合作的造型师——第一次要为奥斯卡颁奖典礼上的一线女星设计造型。

“It was the biggest thing I had ever done,” Zoe remembers. “I had been working with Jennifer Garner for a few months. She was shooting her show Alias then. Her schedule was so insane! I would go to her trailer wherever she was shooting. And whatever time of night she had off, 30 minutes or an hour, that's when we would fit her.”
“这是我做过的最重要的事情,”佐伊回忆道。“我和詹妮弗·加纳一起工作了几个月。她当时正在拍摄她的电视剧《双面特工》。她的日程安排太疯狂了!无论她在哪里拍摄,我都会去她的拖车。无论她晚上什么时候休息,30分钟还是一个小时,我们都会给她安排时间。”

Zoe showed her the orange dress. A vintage Valentino from the house’s archives. Garner was skeptical.
佐伊给她看了那件橙色的连衣裙。从家里的档案室里找到了一件老式的华伦天奴。加纳对此表示怀疑。

“‘No, no, no. I don’t do one-shoulder,’” she says Garner told her. “‘It doesn’t look good on me.’” Plus, it was orange, albeit a coral orange.  “It was the most unlikely color," Zoe acknowledges, "the most unlikely sort of style where she's like, ‘I don't, I don't do this.’ And it was also like, ‘I don't do big jewelry.’ She didn’t even have her ears pierced at the time, and I had these major Fred Leighton earrings.” Zoe laughs. “It was all these, ‘I don't do's.’”
“不,不,不。’”她说加纳告诉她。“我穿起来不好看。’”此外,它是橙色的,尽管是珊瑚橙色。“这是最不可能的颜色,”佐伊承认,“最不可能的风格,她会说,‘我不,我不这样做。’她还说,‘我不做大珠宝。’当时她甚至还没有打耳洞,而我戴着弗雷德·雷顿的大耳环。”佐伊笑着说。“所有这些都是‘我不做’。”

"Okay, well, can we just try it?" Zoe pleaded. But, she admits, “I was nervous.”
“好吧,我们能试试吗?”佐伊辩护。但是,她承认,“我很紧张。”

This was 2004, the height of what Zoe terms, "the Fashion Police era," referring to the Joan Rivers-hosted celebrity-style critiquing show that debuted on E! in 2002.  “Like, people crucifying everyone for looking a certain way. I don't miss that pettiness. It made me crawl out of my skin. says, Garner became “obsessed with it.” And, as it turns out, everyone was obsessed with it. Even the Fashion Police.
那是2004年,佐伊所说的“时尚警察时代”的高潮,指的是琼·里弗斯主持的名人风格的评论节目在E!在2002年。“就像,人们把每个人都钉在十字架上,因为他们的长相是特定的。我不怀念那些小事。它把我吓得魂不附体。他说,加纳“对它着迷”。事实证明,每个人都对它着迷。甚至是时尚警察。

“Jen and I still talk about this moment to this day,” Zoe says. remembering Garner's "swan like" pose on the red carpet at the Kodak Theatre. "That was when we fell in love." The two became close friends.
“直到今天,珍和我还在谈论那一刻,”佐伊说。想起加纳在柯达剧院红毯上的“天鹅式”姿势。“那就是我们相爱的时候。”两人成了亲密的朋友。

This red carpet season, the woman known for her love of vintage, major jewelry, and dramatic cuts, all swirled together with seemingly little effort into a result best described as SoCal soigné, is feeling a little nostalgic. Zoe retired from celebrity styling a decade ago, stepping away from the sequined world that made her nearly as big a celebrity as her clients Cameron Diaz, Kate Hudson, Anne Hathaway, Jennifer Lawrence, and Eva Mendes. She wanted to concentrate on both motherhood and her brand. (She has two sons with husband Rodger Berman and serves as co-CEO of Rachel Zoe, Inc., CURATEUR, Rachel Zoe Collection, and Chairwoman of Rachel Zoe Ventures. The third season of her podcast, Climbing in Heels, is out in April.)
这个红毯季,这位以热爱复古、大牌珠宝和夸张剪裁而闻名的女性,似乎毫不费力地将所有这些组合在一起,形成了一个最适合形容为SoCal soigné的效果,她感到有点怀旧。佐伊十年前就从明星造型界退休了,离开了让她几乎和她的客户卡梅伦·迪亚兹、凯特·哈德森、安妮·海瑟薇、詹妮弗·劳伦斯和伊娃·门德斯一样出名的亮片世界。她想把精力集中在做母亲和自己的品牌上。她与丈夫罗杰·伯曼育有两个儿子,目前担任Rachel Zoe, Inc.的联合首席执行官、Rachel Zoe Collection的策展人以及Rachel Zoe Ventures的董事长。她的播客climb in Heels的第三季将于今年4月播出。)

Her former world, filled with fittings with Hollywood stars and fits from fashion assistants and lots of capital-F Fashion!, was chronicled on her 2008-2013 reality show The Rachel Zoe Project, which also encapsulated a look, a time, and, well, vibe from the mid-aughts. That very vibe nearly consumed its creator.
试衣和许多资本f时尚!她在2008年至2013年的真人秀节目The Rachel Zoe Project中记录了这段经历,该节目也浓缩了她的外表、时代以及中年时期的氛围。这种氛围几乎吞噬了它的创造者。

“I became accidentally famous,” Zoe says, And, for a time, infamous.
“我偶然成名了,”佐伊说,“而且,有一段时间,声名狼藉。”

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