散文佳作108篇 第44期:神话世界九寨沟 Jiuzhaigou,China's Fairyland

Jiuzhaigou, China's Fairyland

蜀中山水，不知迷醉了多少古人和今人……

Sichuan Province in southwest China is renownedfor its many fascinatingnatural wonders which haveattraaed millions of travelers over the centuries.

近年来，在四川北部南坪县境内，闪现出一颗五光十色的风光“宝石”，这就是人们赞不绝口的“神话世界”九寨沟。它镶嵌在松潘、南坪、平武三县接壤的群山之中，面积约6万公顷，距成都约400公里。九寨沟，由树正群海沟、则查洼沟、日则沟三条主沟组成，海拔平均在2，500米左右。过去，沟中有九个藏族村寨，因此得名。

The recent discovery of the scenic beauty of Jiuzhaigou (Nine-village Ravine)has added charmto the picturesque landscape. Known as "China's Fairyland", Jiuzhaigou is located in the hillsalong the borders of Nanping,Pingwu and Songpan counties, some 400 kilometers fromChengdu, the pro-vinaal capital. Three scenic areas-Shuzheng qunhaigou, Zechawagou andRizegou-combine to make up the 60,000 hectares of fairyland, which is nearly 2,500 metersabove sea level. Its name "Nine-village Ravine"is sup-posed to be because Tibetans onceinhabited nine villages in the ravine.

海狭长数里。水光浮翠，倒映林岚。”九寨沟风光之美，实际上百倍于这样的描绘。就四川的名山秀水而论，总是有它们各自的独特风格和个性的。如峨嵋山的“秀”，青城山的“幽”，剑门关的“险”，夔门的“雄”。九寨沟的风光，因它的内涵丰富，很难以一字穷述，还须继续探幽发微。说它宛若“神话世界”，恐怕也只是见重于外在的美吧。

Here is a brief record in "Green Lakes", a chapter in the Annals ofNanpingCounty: "InJiuzhaigou, lakes meander for miles, with wooded hills mir-rored in the clear water." The scene,actually, is much more beautiffil than can be put into words. Sichuan Prorrince is rich in scenicwonders, each with its own distinctive features—the elegance of Mount Emei, the serenityofMount Qingcheng,the sharp precipice of Jianmen Pass, and the grandeur of Kuimen. But todepict the diverse natural beauty of Jiuzhaigou in one or two words is not nearly enough. "Fairyland",however inadequate, is perhaps the only word to choose.

论山品水，古今时尚。或以诗，或以画，或以游记，或以摄影，运用各种不同的艺术手段，表现出山水风光的风格和个性。九寨沟风光的风格和个性，还在不断探索和认识的过程中.这里，得感谢一位长居山中的藏族老人，他讲述了九寨山水莱源的一则神话故事。他说在很古很古的时候，九寨沟万山丛中，有个男神仙达戈，和美丽的女神仙沃诺色嫫自由恋爱，男神仙用风云磨了一面镜子，送给女神仙作梳妆打扮用;女神仙接镜时失手，摔成108块碎片，散落山中，变成了108个“翠海”。古老的传说启发了我们：九寨沟的奇美风光，就在于它有这天然生成的108个“翠海”;从风光的结构上讲，它是以水为主体的，这就有别于其他山水的特色了。

Intrigued by this fairyland, true lovers of nature have tried recording its uniquebeauty inpoems, paintings, photographs and travel notes. An old local Tibetan tells the story ofJiuzhaigou: "Once upon a time, there lived deep in the mountains an immortal named Dage anda fairy maiden named Wonuosemo. They fell in love. One day, Dage presented Wonuosemowith a bright mirror which he had polished with the wind and the clouds. Unfortunately, themirror slipped from the maiden's hand and broke into 108 pieces, each turning into a lake ofemerald green."It is no wonder why scenic Jiuzhaigou is so entertaining, with so manydistinctive "Green Lakes" reigning over the whole area.

祖国山水，风格多样;多样的风格，相对应而存在，相比较而多姿。杭州西湖，水榭歌台，人工赋予它典雅美。蜀中仙山峨嵋，飘浮于云涛雾海，呈秀色于烟雨浸漫的山林。誉满中华的桂林山水，水秀山奇，山水平分秋色。九寨沟风光，却又是另一番景象了。在那里，古树摇曳春秋，山花自谢自开，.植被茸茸生烟，海子和瀑布随着季节的推移而变幻多姿;在那里，冰河时期遗留下来的星叶草、独叶草、先花后叶的领春树，以及熊猫、金丝猴、扭角羚、白马鸡、獐、鹿……组合成了奇异的“动植物王国”。据南坪县对九寨风光有独到见解者讲：“九寨沟的山水风光，纵有万丽千奇，一旦离开原始的自然美，就一切都没有了。”他们的见解是精辟的。当你步人沟中，便可见树正群海淡荡生辉，瀑布舒洒碧玉。一到金秋，满山枫叶降红。盛夏，湖山幽翠。仲春，树绿花艳……四时都呈现出它的天然原始，宁静幽深。日则沟里的镜湖、五花海，则查洼沟里的五彩池，虽缤纷艳丽，但令人迷醉的却是绚丽的和谐景色。这种独特的景观，只有在这个自然保护区才能见到。因此说，天然原始是九寨沟风光的个性和风格，是比较得当的。

China is a land of scenic contrasts, each uniquely representing its own area: West Lake inHangzhou with enchanting pavilions set in quiet surroundings, Mount Emei in Sichuan withpeaks peeping through mist and clouds, Guilin in Guangxi with panoramic views of mountainsand rivers. And Jiuzhaigou presents another view. Aged trees wave the seasons by, amidcarpets of wild flowers and thick green vegetation. Sparkling lakes and waterfalls vary withevery season. Some rare trees and grasses, survivors of the glacial epoch,still thrive here inharmony with a host of creatures which make this ravine their home, for the land teems withsuch animals as giant pandas, golden monkeys, takins, white-eared pheasants, deer and riverdeer. All of this unfolds into a panorama of beautifully balanced fauna and flora. As observersfrom Nanping County have justly put it, "All the beauty of Jiuzhaigou is endowed by nature. Ifthe natural charm were removed, there would be no more of Jiuzhaigou."Mystic lakes andsparkling waterfalls captivate your eyes as you enter the ravine. The trees are their greenestin spring when intensified by colorful flowers. In summer, warm tints spread over the hills andlakelands. As summer merges into autumn, the maple trees turn fiery-red, splashing colorthrough the thickly forested hills. Tranquility pervades primitive Jiuzhaigou throughout theyear, particularly at places around Mirror Lake and Five-flower Lake at Rizegou, and Multi-coloredLake at Zechawagou, where a profusion of colors is brought into full harmony with nature.This singular spectacle can only be seen in Jiuzhaigou-a natural preserve.

当然，这并不排除九寨沟风光的其他特点，它的风景点集中，它的三条主沟，各具特色而又富多种魅力。一位经验丰富纵览过世界风光的国际旅游企业家，曾在九寨沟风光最妩媚的秋天做了一次短游，他说：“像九寨沟这样美妙的景色，世界上是少有的。”他情不自禁地对陪同他的藏族副县长说：“你真幸福啊!你是世界上最美丽的县的县长。”

九寨沟风光，不愧是蜀中又一幅新的山水画卷。

In addition to this natural beauty Jiuzhaigou, again, is noted for its three scenic areas whichare so concentrated in the region and yet so strikingly contrasted with each other thattourists cannot believe their eyes even when they see them. After visiting this fairyland inautumn, a tourist entrepreneur from abroad exclaimed, "Of all the scenic spots the world hasever produced, nothing compares with this." He then turned to his companion, the deputyhead of Nanping County, and said, "You are lucky to govern the most beautiful place in theworld."Scenic Jiuzhaigou is indeed one of nature's most extravagant splendors anywhere andthe crowning glory of Sichuan Province.