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双语新闻:17座奥斯卡金像奖背后的意大利店

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2024年03月09日

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In many movies, the clothing the actors wear is an important part of the story. In Rome, there is a workshop that has been a big part of Italian and international film history for 60 years.
在许多电影中,演员的服装是故事的重要组成部分。在罗马,有一个工作室,60年来一直是意大利和国际电影史上的重要组成部分。

Tirelli Costumes in Rome's Prati neighborhood is an atelier, a business that makes special clothing and costumes. It has earned the nickname the "Oscar tailor's shop" for its work in film costume design. An "Oscar" is another name for an award from the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences.
位于罗马普拉蒂街区的Tirelli Costumes是一家制作特殊服装和服装的工作室。它在电影服装设计方面的工作赢得了“奥斯卡裁缝店”的绰号。“奥斯卡”是美国电影艺术与科学学院颁发的奖项的另一个名称。

Umberto Tirelli started the shop in November 1964. It has been behind 17 Academy Awards for best costume design. Most recently, its workers helped create the costumes for Ridley Scott's movie Napoleon. The film's costume designers were nominated for an Oscar that will be decided at the Academy Awards in Hollywood this weekend.
翁贝托·蒂雷利于1964年11月创办了这家店。它已经获得了17项奥斯卡最佳服装设计奖。最近,它的工人帮助雷德利·斯科特的电影《拿破仑》制作服装。这部电影的服装设计师获得了奥斯卡奖提名,该奖项将于本周末在好莱坞举行的奥斯卡颁奖典礼上揭晓。

"Maybe it will win! Let's add another medal to the medal collection," the shop's current head, Dino Trappetti, told The Associated Press. "Of course, the Oscar is not won by the tailor's shop, the Oscar is won by the costume designer. But the tailor's shop has the merit and the honor of having participated to make it win."
“也许它会赢!”让我们在奖章收藏中再增加一枚奖章,”该店现任老板迪诺·特拉皮蒂告诉美联社。“当然,赢得奥斯卡奖的不是裁缝店,而是服装设计师。但这家裁缝店的优点和参与的荣誉使它赢了。”

The beginning of the atelier started with Tirelli's passion for collecting old clothes. He searched for clothing in houses of nobility and flea markets worldwide. He slowly built a collection that now has more than 15,000 real pieces of clothing that date from 1750 to 1980.
工作室的创立源于Tirelli对收集旧衣服的热情。他在世界各地的贵族住宅和跳蚤市场寻找衣服。他慢慢地建立了一个收藏,现在有15000多件真正的衣服,时间可以追溯到1750年到1980年。

At the start, the shop had "a sewing machine, two cutters and two other seamstresses," Trappetti said.
一开始,这家店只有“一台缝纫机、两名裁衣师和另外两名女裁缝,”特拉佩蒂说。

Today, the headquarters of Tirelli Costumes has mannequins wearing some of the atelier's most famous creations: A pink flowered outfit that actor Tom Hulce wore as Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart in Amadeus, and the red outfit Michelle Pfeiffer wore in The Age of Innocence. The designers of each of those pieces of clothing won Oscars.
如今,Tirelli服饰公司总部的模特们穿着该工作室最著名的一些作品:演员汤姆·胡尔斯在《艾玛迪斯》中饰演沃尔夫冈·阿玛迪斯·莫扎特时穿的粉红色花朵套装,以及米歇尔·菲佛在《纯真年代》中穿的红色套装。这些服装的设计师都获得了奥斯卡奖。

After the 1984 costume design Oscar for Amadeus, Tirelli could have accepted many international projects "because the market was immediately interested," Trappetti said. But Tirelli, who died in 1990, was not sure.
在1984年凭借《艾玛迪斯》获得奥斯卡服装设计奖后,蒂雷利本可以接受许多国际项目,“因为市场立即产生了兴趣,”特拉皮蒂说。但1990年去世的蒂雷利对此并不确定。

Trappetti remembered him saying: "I'm not going to America. If America wants, America will come looking for me."
特拉佩蒂记得他说过:“我不去美国。如果美国愿意,美国就会来找我。”

Over 60 years, the tailor's shop has created more than 300,000 costumes that are now stored near Rome. Costume designers come for ideas and historical information. They also come for hand-cut, hand-sewn creations by the team of Tirelli workers.
60多年来,这家裁缝店制作了30多万件服装,现在存放在罗马附近。服装设计师来这里是为了获取创意和历史信息。他们也会来购买由天耐力工人团队手工剪裁和缝制的产品。

"You can't make those costumes in a factory. In a factory you can make films with robots, futuristic or fantasy," Trappetti said. "But these things have to be made by hand."
“你不能在工厂里做那些服装。在工厂里,你可以用机器人制作电影,无论是未来主义的还是幻想的,”特拉皮蒂说。“但这些东西必须手工制作。”

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