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人生不设限·热情洋溢的冲浪黑狗兄

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2019年04月26日

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每当生活出状况,并一点一点啃噬你的计划或梦想时,请想起这个神奇女孩的信心。不幸的事总会发生。我们偶尔会被一些意想不到的浪打到,你的问题可能不会是鲨鱼,但无论是什么击倒了你,想想这位勇敢的十多岁女孩吧,她不但在被自然界最凶猛残酷的掠食者攻击之后活了下来,还恢复了健康,比以往更坚定地过着一个非凡的人生。

Remember this amazing girl's faith whenever life jumps up and takes a bite out of your plans and dreams. It will happen. We all get hit by unexpected waves now and then. Chances are your problem won't be a shark, but whatever knocks you down, think of this gritty teenage girl who not only survived an attack from one of nature's most ferocious predators but bounced back more determined than ever to lead an awesome life.

贝诗妮大大鼓舞了我,所以我请她帮助我做一件我一直想做的事——我问她愿不愿意教我冲浪,而让我惊讶的是,她立刻提议带我去威基基海滩。

Bethany inspired me so much that I asked her to help me do something I'd always wanted to try. Would she teach me to surf? To my amazement, she promptly offered to take me out on Waikiki Beach.

想到可以在夏威夷的国王和皇后们第一次骑在浪头上的历史地点学冲浪,就让我超级兴奋,当然也非常紧张。当贝诗妮在为我准备的长板上打蜡[9]时,她介绍了两位冲浪明星——东尼·莫尼兹(Tony Moniz)和蓝斯·胡卡诺(Lance Ho'okano)——给我认识,他们也会一起下水。

I was psyched at the prospect of learning to surf in the historic place where Hawaiian kings and queens first rode atop waves. I also was more than a little nervous. As Bethany waxed a longboard for me, she introduced me to surfing stars Tony Moniz and Lance Hookano, who would be joining us in the water.

我说过,当你怀疑自己能否实现人生的目标时,请信任那些愿意助你一臂之力,以及能够指引你的人。这就是我为了学会冲浪所做的,我不可能有更好的冲浪伙伴了。他们先教我在草皮上练习如何在板子上保持平衡。

As I've mentioned, when you find yourself wondering whether you will be able to accomplish your goals in life, trust in people who are willing to lend you a hand and who can serve as your guide. That's exactly what I did in approaching this goal. I could not have asked for better surfing buddies. They started me practicing by balancing on my board in the grass.

他们轮流陪我,教导我,鼓励我。当我们冲进海浪时,我突然有个让人惊慌的想法:我们两个人加起来只有三肢——而且,全部都是贝诗妮的耶!我很爱当个冲浪黑狗兄,而且我很会游泳,所以也不怕水,但我还是不太确定,就算有专家帮忙,我可以在浪头的冲击下保持平衡吗?有一次,老师在我的冲浪板上时,我做了个360度的回转;还有一次,我在冲浪时跳下自己的板子,然后跳上贝诗妮的冲浪板!

They took turns riding with me, giving me instructions and cheering me on. As we were wading into the ocean waves, I was struck by the scary thought that the two of us had only three limbs between us—and they were all Bethany's! I loved the idea of being a surfer dude, and as a strong swimmer, I have no fear of the water, but I wasn't sure I could stay on a board atop the waves even with all the expert help. On one trip I did a 360-degree turn with one of my instructors on board. On another I hopped off my board and onto Bethany's board while surfing!

很自然地,我想要靠自己秀一下——没办法,我就是爱表现。最后,大家都同意我可以来场个人秀。为了让我在追到浪时可以自己站起来,他们折了几条毛巾,做成小平台,放在我的冲浪板前方,这样我在波浪中加速时,就可以用肩膀靠着这个毛巾平台,然后慢慢直立起来。有志又有浪,成功在前方!

Eventually I wanted to try it by myself. I can't help it—I'm a ham. Finally everyone agreed I was ready to surf solo. To help me get up on my own once I caught a wave, they created a small platform by duct-taping a few folded towels to the front of my surfboard, which I felt confident would help me bring myself up. Then, once I built up some speed on a wave, I could leverage my shoulders against the towels and inch up into a standing position. Where there is a will and a wave, there is a way!

当天在威基基海滩有个冲浪比赛,人群开始聚集,全都看着我们。这些专家给了我不少建议——虽然他们的建议让我更加紧张。

A surfing competition was being held that day at Waikiki, and a crowd began to gather, watching us. Though it made me nervous, I was getting plenty of advice from the experts.

“你真的要下水啊,老兄?”

"Are you really going to try this on the water, dude?"

“老兄,我搞不懂你没手没脚,怎么保持平衡?”

"Dude, I don't know how you can stay balanced without arms and legs!"

“你会游泳吗,老兄?你游得比鲨鱼快吗?”

"Can you swim, dude? Can you swim faster than a shark, dude?"

下水后,我感觉好多了。我很轻,所以漂浮跟游泳都不成问题。我还很容易漂流,所以最后会到哪里去,我也不知道,说不定我会一路漂回澳大利亚,被冲进我父母家的后院。

Once we were out on the water, I actually felt better. I am very buoyant, so floating and swimming is not a problem. I also tend to drift, so I never know where I might end up. I had visions of floating back to Australia and washing up in my parents' backyard!

那天真是快活啊。贝诗妮在水中陪着我、鼓励我,但一开始我试着要追浪并站起来时,总是从冲浪板上掉下去。我试了六次,掉了六次。

It was a gorgeous day. Bethany was in the water alongside me, encouraging me, but whenever I tried to catch a wave and stand up, I'd fall off my board. Six times I tried. Six times I wiped out.

不,我不能放弃。那么多人在看,还有一堆相机在那里照个不停,我可不想被放到You Tube上面,然后影片标题写着“撑不住两个浪头的身障黑狗兄”。小时候我整天在溜滑板,所以对板子还是很能掌握的。终于,在第七次尝试时,我追到一个大浪,并成功地在板子上站了起来。那个感觉真的超刺激,所以我不讳言,当我站在冲浪板上,一路进入海滩时,我像个小女生一样尖叫了起来。

I couldn't give up. Too many people were watching. Too many cameras were rolling. I was not about to be featured on YouTube as the disabled dude who couldn't hang two. As a kid I'd spent a lot of time skateboarding, so I was getting a good feel for it. Finally on my seventh attempt I caught a big wave and brought myself up. It was such a thrill, I don't mind telling you that I screamed like a schoolgirl as I stood atop that board coming into the beach.

当我冲进海滩时,每个人都在看,并且对着我欢呼、吹口哨。我整个人都热起来了——这个我很清楚,因为每个人都冲着我说:“老兄,你真是个火热的黑狗兄!”

Everyone watching along the beach cheered and whistled as I surfed in. I was stoked! I know that because everyone told me, "Dude, you are a stoked dude!"

接下来的两个小时,我们追了一道又一道的浪,来回将近二十趟。因为比赛的关系,岸边有好几位摄影师,结果我成了第一个登上《冲浪客》杂志封面的菜鸟冲浪客。结束水上美好的一天之后,我擦干身体。

For the next two hours we caught wave after wave, making nearly twenty rides. There were several photographers on the beach because of the competition, so I became the first rookie surfer ever to be featured on the cover of Surfer magazine. I toweled off from a great day on the water.

稍后,蓝斯·胡卡诺在访问中提出一个有趣的看法:“我已经在这个海滩上待了一辈子,却从没参与过这种事。力克是我见过最热情洋溢的人,他真的爱冲浪,他的血管里流的就是海水。这件事让我觉得,一切都是可能的。”

Later in an interview Lance Hookano made an interesting observation. "I've been on this beach my whole life," he said, "and I've never been a part of something like this. Nick is one of the most stoked people I have ever seen. He loves it. He's got salt water running through his veins. It makes me think anything's possible."

请抓住这个想法:一切都是可能的。当你觉得自己被某个巨大的挑战摧毁了、打败了,请相信任何事都是可能的。当下你也许看不到出路,也许觉得全世界都联合起来跟你唱反调,但请你相信,环境会改变,答案会出现,而你会获得意想不到的帮助。然后,任何事都会有可能!

Hold that thought: Anything is possible. When you feel wiped out and blown away by a huge challenge, trust that anything is possible. You may not see a way out at the moment. You may feel that the whole world is lined up against you. But believe that circumstances can change, solutions can appear, and help can arrive from unexpected places. Then anything is possible!

如果一个没手没脚的家伙也能在全世界最顶尖的海滩冲浪,那么任何一件事对你都是有可能的!

If a bloke with no arms and no legs can learn to surf on one of the world's greatest beaches, anything and everything is possible for you!


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