特朗普的衣服为何总是大一号？

Donald Trump's clothes do not fit him.This fact has not been widely noticed, which is unsurprising.In a fight for attention, his outfit was always going to come in a distant fourth, behind his bouffant, his spray tan, and whatever last tumbled out of his mouth.

唐纳德·特朗普的衣服总是不合体。大多数人并没注意到这个情况，这一点都不出乎意料。在博选民眼球的激烈选战中，其一身行头的关注度只排到第四位，排在他一头蓬发、喷抹的褐色皮肤以及信口雌黄之后。

Yet the clothes reward study.The shoulders of his suits are too wide by at least a size, and slump over to the side.The jackets are a solid inch too long, and billow.The trousers, through bagginess, manage to look worn out, though they are not.

然而衣妆值得细细研究一番。特朗普的西服肩部宽得都向两边溜开，至少宽出一个尺码；夹克衫足足宽出了一英寸，显得鼓囊；宽松的裤子尽管并非旧货，但怎么看都像旧的。

Slipshod sizing does not prove that Trump is poorly dressed.For there are good clothes and bad clothes, and then there are clothes well and badly worn, which are something else altogether.The two distinctions overlap, in fact, rendering four possible modes of dress.

衣服尺码马虎草率并不能证明特朗普乃衣衫褴褛之辈。因为生活中的衣妆既有档次高低之分，还有得体之别，两者完全是两码事。

Good/well-worn clothes are attractive, well-fitting and carried off with verve.Then there is bad/well-worn：ugly or ill-fitting clothes that nonetheless project the desired image.A familiar mixture of money, vanity and sartorial incompetence generates good/badly worn clothes.Bad/badly worn is more familiar still, and is just what the name says it is.

高档时装若再加上得体，自然风度翩翩、气度不凡；但有钱、虚荣，却对着装搭配一窍不通，结果往往就是高档时装穿出差强人意的效果，这也十分常见。

Keeping the discussion political, Ronald Reagan is a prime example of good/well-worn.There is a famous portrait of the former president on the White House colonnade in a brown suit.Brown suits are, traditionally, something of a joke.Looking at this one on Reagan—with a white shirt, a dark green tie, and glistening brown shoes—I have a powerful urge to own one just like it.Reagan knew how to wear a suit to accentuate his height and leanness without looking forced or pretentious.It is a trick that the current president emulates.

光从政治范畴来衡量，前里根总统是高档时装与搭配得体的典范。白宫的柱廊上挂着他那张身穿棕色西装的著名照片。从传统意义上说，穿棕色西装显得不够严肃。但看到它穿在里根总统身上的效果——再配以白衬衣、深绿领带以及锃亮的棕色皮鞋——我立马萌生了也想整上一套的强烈愿望。里根清楚如何穿西服方能突显自己的瘦高身材，同时又不显得咄咄逼人与自命不凡。这是当今总统们应该学习效仿的着装诀窍。

Hillary Clinton, surprisingly, may also fit best in the good/well-worn box.After a long career marked by some shocking failures of dress, she has settled down.Her clothes are well-tailored and offset her fundamentally awkward presence with simple designs and strong colours.She will never look great, but after decades in front of the camera she picks clothes that help her look as good as she possibly can.

希拉里·克林顿或许也可归在高档时装与搭配得体的一类里，这有些出人意料。在其长期从政生涯中，曾出现多次令人瞠目结舌的着装“败招”，但如今的她已深谙此道。她的衣妆做工考究，用简洁的设计与亮丽的色彩很好弥补了其与生俱来的风度欠缺。她永远不显高贵，但与新闻媒体了几十年交道后，她精心挑选的装束让其形象“完美无缺”。

Reagan's friend and political adversary, Tip O'Neill, was a perfect case of bad/well-worn.The house speaker tended to look like a load of unironed laundry—and this contributed to his presence rather than detracting from it.In a 1976 portrait of O'Neill by Richard Avedon, his plaid suit combines hollow-looking shoulders with snugness across the midsection.The collar fails to lie flat at the back of the neck.Just enough of his trousers are visible to reveal they are too tight.He looks wonderful.The offness of the suit conveys substance and humanity, and matches an equally rumpled but serious expression.In his own way, he knew how to wear clothes.

里根的好友与政敌蒂普·奥尼尔则是把低档货穿得很好的“典范”。这位众议院前议长总是一幅皱巴巴的行头——而这却让其形象加分而非减损。在理查德·阿威顿于1976年为其拍摄的一张照片中，奥尼尔的格子呢西装肩部显得松松垮垮，但却紧贴着腹部，西装领子在脖梗部一点都不平展。随便瞄一眼他穿的裤子，就明显看出它们太过紧致。他长相俊朗，但不得体的西装却表露了他的品行以及仁爱之心，这倒与他的一张皱巴、但无比庄重的脸相十分般配。奥尼尔用自己的独特方式展示了该如何着装。

In politics, nice clothes are rarely combined with a failed personal style.The effect of good/badly worn clothes would be political poison.Wearing good clothes without élan is to be instantaneously revealed as humourless and self-deluding.Good/badly worn clothes are found in the highest density on Wall Street, where custom suits and beautiful Hermès ties sit dispiritedly on men who would only look at home in a lacrosse uniform.A politician who fell into a similar trap would soon be looking for a different profession.

在政界，有时尚感的衣服往往只能塑造出失败的个人风格。高档时装穿得不得体，对政治人物有百害而无一利。精气神欠缺的人穿时尚感强的衣服，立马显得毫无幽默感，甚至还有点自欺欺人。把高档衣服穿得很不得体的人，在美国华尔街比比皆是：定制西服与漂亮的爱马仕领带穿在那些只对曲棍球运动装感兴趣的男人身上，常常显得没精打采。而犯同样错误的政客用不了多久就得另谋出路。

Finally, bad/badly worn：here sits Bernie Sanders, in a frumpy suit, a button collar and an indifferent tie, badly dressed and with an academic physical presentation.There is no shame in this category when you mean to be in it.Sanders has no style, and dares you to make an issue of it, because it is his principles that matter.（It is tempting, and quite wrong, to suggest that total indifference is a style in itself, as anyone who has spent time in academia can attest.）

最后一类人是穿不得体的低档时装：伯尼·桑德斯就是个现成例子，他穿着古板西服与纽扣领衬衣、系着很劣质的领带；他着装不当，还俨然一副指点江山的学究样。如果桑德斯自己就想归入此类，倒也无可厚非。桑德斯没有自己的着装风格，而且敢于对此借题发挥，因为他最看重的是自己秉持的原则。（对着装完全无动于衷本身也是一种时尚风格，这样的说法颇有市场，却是大错特错。）

So, is Trump a bad/well-worn dresser or a bad/badly worn one? It is hard to say.He may go to a tailor perfectly capable of cutting him a suit that fits, if broader shoulders and fuller pants were not requested specially.Maybe Trump has found that his particular brand of bad clothes works beautifully for him.There is no doubting that his total image has succeeded spectacularly in its own vulgar terms.Alternatively, his undoubtedly expensive tailor may be making a fool of his client by playing to his bloated sense of self.

那么，特朗普是属于把低档时装穿得好的，还是穿得不好的？这实在是说不清、道不明。宽肩与肥裤若无特定要求，他可以找位非常擅长量体裁衣的定制裁缝师。也许特朗普认为自己与众不同的糟糕行头正中下怀。毫无疑问，他的总体粗俗形象圆满实现了自己的目的。换言之，要价不菲的定制裁缝师（毫无疑问）也许通过让特朗普尽情发挥自我膨胀的个性，也许只是让自己的这位客户出尽了洋相。

Trump's politics are bearable only if he does not mean all the awful nonsense he says.His clothes are the opposite：they are admirable only if he means them to be every bit as awful as they are.

特朗普那些耸人听闻的胡话如果仅是胡喷而已，那么世人尚可容忍其政治观点。其着装则正相反：如果他就想把自己的不得体行头“进行到底”，那么它们倒值得大赞特赞。

词汇总结

bouffant['bu:fɒ̃]

adj.张大的，鼓胀的，柔软而膨松的;百褶

In a fight for attention, his outfit was always going to come in a distant fourth, behind his bouffant, his spray tan, and whatever last tumbled out of his mouth.

在博选民眼球的激烈选战中，其一身行头的关注度只排到第四位，排在他一头蓬发、喷抹的褐色皮肤以及信口雌黄之后。

slipshod[ˈslɪpʃɒd]

adj.马虎的，随便的，草率的

Slipshod sizing does not prove that Trump is poorly dressed.

衣服尺码马虎草率并不能证明特朗普乃衣衫褴褛之辈。

sartorial[sɑ:ˈtɔ:riəl]

adj.（男子）服装的，缝纫的

A familiar mixture of money, vanity and sartorial incompetence generates good/badly worn clothes.

但有钱、虚荣，却对着装搭配一窍不通，结果往往就是高档时装穿出差强人意的效果，这也十分常见。

snugness

紧贴合身;舒适

In a 1976 portrait of O'Neill by Richard Avedon, his plaid suit combines hollow-looking shoulders with snugness across the midsection.

在理查德·阿威顿于1976年为其拍摄的一张照片中，奥尼尔的格子呢西装肩部显得松松垮垮，但却紧贴着腹部，西装领子在脖梗部一点都不平展。