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双语·流动的盛宴 第十一章 和帕斯金[1]邂逅于圆亭咖啡馆

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2022年04月25日

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With Pascin at the Dôme

It was a lovely evening and I had worked hard all day and left the flat over the sawmill and walked out through the courtyard with the stacked lumber, closed the door, crossed the street and went into the back door of the bakery that fronted on the Boulevard Montparnasse and out through the good bread smells of the ovens and the shop to the street. The lights were on in the bakery and outside it was the end of the day and I walked in the early dusk up the street and stopped outside the terrace of the Nègre de Toulouse restaurant where our red and white checkered napkins were in the wooden napkin rings in the napkin rack waiting for us to come to dinner. I read the menu mimeographed in purple ink and saw that the plat du jour was cassoulet. It made me hungry to read the name.

Mr. Lavigne, the proprietor, asked me how my work had gone and I said it had gone very well. He said he had seen me working on the terrace of the Closerie des Lilas early in the morning but he had not spoken to me because I was so occupied.

“You had the air of a man alone in the jungle,” he said.

“I am like a blind pig when I work.”

“But were you not in the jungle, Monsieur?”

“In the bush,” I said.

I went on up the street looking in the windows and happy with the spring evening and the people coming past. In the three principal cafés I saw people that I knew by sight and others that I knew to speak to. But there were always much nicer-looking people that I did not know that, in the evening with the lights just coming on, were hurrying to some place to drink together, to eat together and then to make love. The people in the principal cafés might do the same thing or they might just sit and drink and talk and love to be seen by others. The people that I liked and had not met went to the big cafés because they were lost in them and no one noticed them and they could be alone in them and be together. The big cafés were cheap then too, and all had good beer and the apéritifs cost reasonable prices that were clearly marked on the saucers that were served with them.

On this evening I was thinking these wholesome but not original thoughts and feeling extraordinarily virtuous because I had worked well and hard on a day when I had wanted to go out to the races very badly. But at this time I could not afford to go to the races, even though there was money to be made there if you worked at it. It was before the days of saliva tests and other methods of detecting artificially encouraged horses and doping was very extensively practiced. But handicapping beasts that are receiving stimulants, and detecting the symptoms in the paddock and acting on your perceptions, which sometimes bordered on the extrasensory, then backing them with money you cannot afford to lose, is not the way for a young man supporting a wife and child to get ahead in the full-time job of learning to write prose.

By any standards we were still very poor and I still made such small economies as saying that I had been asked out for lunch and then spending two hours walking in the Luxembourg gardens and coming back to describe the marvelous lunch to my wife. When you are twenty-five and are a natural heavyweight, missing a meal makes you very hungry. But it also sharpens all of your perceptions, and I found that many of the people I wrote about had very strong appetites and a great taste and desire for food, and most of them were looking forward to having a drink.

At the Nègre de Toulouse we drank the good Cahors wine from the quarter, the half, or the full carafe, usually diluting it about one-third with water. At home, over the sawmill, we had a Corsican wine that had great authority and a low price. It was a very Corsican wine and you could dilute it by half with water and still receive its message. In Paris, then, you could live very well on almost nothing and by skipping meals occasionally and never buying any new clothes, you could save and have luxuries.

Coming back from The Select now where I had sheered off at the sight of Harold Stearns who I knew would want to talk horses, those animals I was thinking of righteously and light-heartedly as the beasts that I had just foresworn. Full of my evening virtue I passed the collection of inmates at the Rotonde and, scorning vice and the collective instinct, crossed the boulevard to the Dôme. The Dôme was crowded too, but there were people there who had worked.

There were models who had worked and there were painters who had worked until the light was gone and there were writers who had finished a day’s work for better or for worse, and there were drinkers and characters, some of whom I knew and some that were only decoration.

I went over and sat down at a table with Pascin and two models who were sisters. Pascin had waved to me while I had stood on the sidewalk on the rue Delambre side wondering whether to stop and have a drink or not. Pascin was a very good painter and he was drunk; steady, purposefully drunk and making good sense. The two models were young and pretty. One was very dark, small, beautifully built with a falsely fragile depravity. The other was childlike and dull but very pretty in a perishable childish way. She was not as well built as her sister, but neither was anyone else that spring.

“The good and the bad sisters,” Pascin said. “I have money. What will you drink?”

“Une demi-blonde,” I said to the waiter.

“Have a whisky. I have money.”

“I like beer.”

“If you really liked beer, you’d be at Lipp’s. I suppose you’ve been working.”

“Yes.”

“It goes?”

“I hope so.”

“Good. I’m glad. And everything still tastes good?”

“Yes.”

“How old are you?”

“Twenty-five.”

“Do you want to bang her?” He looked toward the dark sister and smiled. “She needs it.”

“You probably banged her enough today.”

She smiled at me with her lips open. “He’s wicked,” she said.“But he’s nice.”

“You can take her over to the studio.”

“Don’t make piggishness,” the blonde sister said.

“Who spoke to you?” Pascin asked her.

“Nobody. But I said it.”

“Let’s be comfortable,” Pascin said. “The serious young writer and the friendly wise old painter and the two beautiful young girls with all of life before them.”

We sat there and the girls sipped at their drinks and Pascin drank another fine à l’eau and I drank the beer; but no one was comfortable except Pascin. The dark girl was restless and she sat on display turning her profile and letting the light strike the concave planes of her face and showing me her breasts under the hold of the black sweater. Her hair was cropped short and was sleek and dark as an oriental’s.

“You’ve posed all day,” Pascin said to her. “Do you have to model that sweater now at the café?”

“It pleases me,” she said.

“You look like a Javanese toy,” he said.

“Not the eyes,” she said. “It’s more complicated than that.”

“You look like a poor perverted little poupée.”

“Perhaps,” she said. “But alive. That’s more than you.”

“We’ll see about that.”

“Good,” she said. “I like proofs.”

“You didn’t have any today?”

“Oh that,” she said and turned to catch the last evening light on her face. “You were just excited about your work. He’s in love with canvases,” she said to me. “There’s always some kind of dirtiness.”

“You want me to paint you and pay you and bang you to keep my head clear, and be in love with you too,” Pascin said. “You poor little doll.”

“You like me, don’t you, Monsieur?” she asked me.

“Very much.”

“But you’re too big,” she said sadly.

“Everyone is the same size in bed.”

“It’s not true,” her sister said. “And I’m tired of this talk.”

“Look,” Pascin said. “If you think I’m in love with canvases, I’ll paint you tomorrow in water colors.”

“When do we eat?” her sister asked. “And where?”

“Will you eat with us?” the dark girl asked.

“No. I go to eat with my légitime.” That was what they said then. Now they say “my régulière.”

“You have to go?”

“Have to and want to.”

“Go on, then,” Pascin said. “And don’t fall in love with typewriting paper.”

“If I do, I’ll write with a pencil.”

“Water colors tomorrow,” he said. “All right, my children, I will drink another and then we eat where you wish.”

“Chez Viking,” the dark girl said.

“Me too,” her sister urged.

“All right,” Pascin agreed. “Good night, jeune homme. Sleep well.”

“You too.”

“They keep me awake,” he said. “I never sleep.”

“Sleep tonight.”

“After Chez Les Vikings?” He grinned with his hat on the back of his head. He looked more like a Broadway character of the Nineties than the lovely painter that he was, and afterwards, when he had hanged himself, I liked to remember him as he was that night at the Dôme. They say the seeds of what we will do are in all of us, but it always seemed to me that in those who make jokes in life the seeds are covered with better soil and with a higher grade of manure.

第十一章 和帕斯金[1]邂逅于圆亭咖啡馆

那是个美好的傍晚。我笔耕不辍,写了一天的稿子,此时离开锯木厂跟前的公寓,穿过堆放着木料的院子,然后随手带上大门,横穿街道, 走进门面正对蒙帕纳斯林荫大道的那家面包房的后门,在面包炉冒出的香味中穿过店堂走到街上。白天已接近尾声,面包房屋里屋外都点上了灯。我踏着初降的暮色走在大街上,在图卢兹黑人餐馆外面的平台前留住了脚步。餐馆里的餐巾架上配有一些圆木环,圆木环上挂着红白格子图案的餐巾,在等待着食客进去就餐。我看了看用紫色油墨印出的菜单,发现这天的特色菜是卡苏莱[2]——一看那菜名我就垂涎欲滴,觉得饥肠辘辘。

餐馆老板拉维格尼先生跟我搭话,问我写作进展如何,我说写得十分顺利。他说一大早就看到我在丁香园的平台上写作来着,因为我非常投入,他也就没有跟我说话。

“你当时的样子就像独自待在深山老林里,旁边一个人也没有。”他说。

“我写作的时候就像一头瞎了眼的猪。”

“难道没有身处深山老林的感觉吗?”

“有一种身处灌木丛里的感觉。”我说。

我说完就沿着大街走掉了,一路欣赏着商铺的橱窗——那春天的黄昏和街上的行人让我感到心情愉悦。街上那三家主要的咖啡馆里人头攒动,里面有和我一面之交的人,也有我可以与之深谈的人。出入于这些咖啡馆的当然还有我不认识的人,一个个衣冠楚楚、风度翩翩。在这华灯初上的傍晚,人们匆匆忙忙找个地方喝上几杯,吃上几口饭,然后回家去颠鸾倒凤,尽鱼水之欢。在这几家主要的咖啡馆里的人可能也在做同样的事,或者只是进来坐一坐,喝上几杯,聊一聊天,秀一秀恩爱。我喜欢的那些人在街上一个也没有碰到,他们可能都去大咖啡馆里消磨时光了——在那儿,他们可以消失在人群中,没有人会注意到他们;他们可以独斟独饮,也可以和朋友在一起慢斟慢饮。那时候的大咖啡馆收费很便宜,都备有上好的啤酒,开胃酒价钱公道、明码标价,价目表就放在和酒一起端上来的小碟子上。

这天傍晚,我有千般好心绪,却没有了创作的念头——反正我问心无愧,对得起这一天,原来十分想去看赛马,却闷在屋里埋头苦干,而且收效颇丰。不过话又说回来,我即便想去赌赛马,也只恨钱囊羞涩(虽说只要下功夫,钱还是有得赚的)。那时还没有开始对参赛马实行唾液检验以及其他检测人为刺激参赛马的措施,所以给参赛马服用兴奋剂的做法层出不穷。你可以观察那些服用过兴奋剂的马,权衡利弊,可以在围场观察它们的状态,然后根据自己的判断(有时这种判断是“超感觉”的)做出决策,将一笔根本输不起的钱押上去。然而,对于一个需要养家糊口,又需要全力以赴学习写作以便有所作为的年轻人而言,这绝非阳光大道。

不管用哪个标准衡量,我们家都是赤贫户。所以,我经常故技重演以节省开支,常谎称自己要去赴饭局,实际跑到卢森堡公园里待上两个小时,回家后却对妻子绘声绘色地描述那顿饭是多么的丰盛。当你二十五岁的时候,而且生就一副重量级拳击手的身材,少吃一顿饭也会饿得你发晕。不过,你的观察力亦会因此变得敏锐。这时我才恍然大悟,原来我笔下的人物有许多是大胃王,一个个都极其贪吃,对食物有着强烈欲望,大多还都渴望喝上一杯美酒。

我们常在图卢兹黑人餐馆喝到上好的卡奥尔葡萄酒,有时喝四分之一瓶,有时喝半瓶或者一整瓶,一般都兑入大约三分之一的苏打水。在锯木厂附近的家里,我们则喝科西嘉葡萄酒,这种酒名声响、价钱低。那可是地道的科西嘉葡萄酒,兑上一半苏打水,也可以品到浓浓的酒香。在巴黎,那时你几乎不用花什么钱就可以生活得很好,偶尔饿上几顿饭,不添置新衣服,就能省下钱来买几件奢侈品。

话说我走在大街上,来到名流咖啡馆时,见哈罗德·斯塔恩斯[3]在里面,便扭过头往回走,因为我不愿见他,知道一见面他准会谈赛马的事情。想起赛马,我当然感到心情愉悦,可是我刚刚发过誓,绝不再赌赛马了。沐浴着暮色,我满怀着洁身自好的心情走过劳特尔多咖啡馆时,见里面座无虚席,不由对那些吃货嗤之以鼻,嘲笑他们贪吃的恶习以及追欢寻乐的本性。跨过林荫大道来到圆亭咖啡馆,发现里面也坐满了顾客,只不过那些顾客大多是完成了工作之后来放松的。

那里有干完了活儿的模特儿,有作画一直作到天黑的画家,有好歹完成了一天工作的作家,也有酒鬼以及其他类型的人,有些是我认识的有头有脸的人,有些纯粹是来凑热闹的。

我站在德朗布尔大街的人行道上犹豫着,不知该不该进去喝上一杯。帕斯金和两个模特儿姐妹正坐在一张桌子旁,看见我在那儿,便冲我招了招手,于是我就走过去坐在了他们身边。帕斯金是个出类拔萃的画家,此时已微醉,但并未失态,只是有意喝高了些,头脑仍清楚。那两个模特儿年轻又漂亮。其中的一个模特儿黑黑的,娇小玲珑,身材非常性感,如弱柳临风,却有几许放荡的神态。另一个有点孩子气,举止呆板,但有闭月羞花之美,显出一种稚气将褪的姿色。她虽然不及姐姐那般婀娜多姿,却也非他人可比。

“两姐妹一个好一个坏。”帕斯金说,“我这儿有钱。你想喝什么?”

“来半升黄啤。”我用法语对侍者说。

“来一杯威士忌吧。我有的是钱。”

“我爱喝啤酒。”

“要是你的确爱喝啤酒,那就该去利普饭店,那儿的啤酒好。我猜你一直在写东西。”

“是的。”

“顺利吗?”

“希望如此。”

“很好。我为你感到高兴。日子是不是还过得那样有滋有味?”

“是的。”

“你多大了?”

“二十五岁。”

“你想不想干她?”他朝那个黑美人姐姐望了一眼,笑眯眯地说,“她需要有人干她。”

“你今天大概已经跟她干够了。”

那女子轻启樱唇,冲我嫣然一笑说:“他一肚子坏水,但待人厚道。”

“你可以把她带到画室去干。”

“请不要说脏话。”那位金发妹妹说。

“谁跟你说脏话啦?”帕斯金问她。

“没人说。但这是我的忠告。”

“咱们还是放松一下吧。”帕斯金说,“一个严肃认真的年轻作家和一个热情友好、聪明机智的老画家在一起,身边有两个年轻貌美的姑娘陪伴,生活该是多么美好呀。”

我们坐在那里,姑娘们啜着饮料,帕斯金又喝了一杯兑水白兰地,而我则喝着啤酒。但是,除了帕斯金以外,谁也不觉得轻松惬意。那位黑美人姑娘焦躁不安,有意侧过脸去展示她的侧影,让光线投射到她的鹅蛋脸上,把裹在黑色羊毛衫下的酥胸露给我看。她的头发修剪得很短,又亮又黑,像个东方女郎。

“你摆了一天的姿势,”帕斯金对她说,“现在是在咖啡馆,难道你还要重操旧业,展示你的羊毛衫不成?”

“我高兴这样。”她说。

“你看上去就像个爪哇玩偶。”帕斯金说。

“眼睛可不像,”她说,“我的眼神要比玩偶的复杂得多。”

“你的样子就像是小可怜,一个放荡的小玩偶。”

“也许吧,”她说,“但我是个充满了活力的玩偶,比你更具活力。”

“咱们走着瞧,看谁更具活力。”

“好呀,”她说,“那就证明给我看。”

“今天是不是没有证明给你看?”

“哦,你说的是那种事。”她说着转过脸来,让最后一缕落日的余晖照在脸上,“都怪你太痴迷于作画。”随后,她对着我说道,“他爱的是油画布,但也喜欢干一些不尴不尬的事情。”

“你要我画你,给你钱,还要我干你,以便让我的头脑保持清醒。除此之外,你还想让我爱上你,”帕斯金说,“你这个可怜的小玩偶。”

“你喜欢我,不是吗,先生?”她问我。

“非常喜欢。”

“可惜你的块头太大了。”她沮丧地说。

“上了床,每个人的尺寸都是一样的。”

“这话不对,”她的妹妹说,“我不愿再听你们说这种话了。”

“听着,”帕斯金说,“要是你认为我爱上了油画布,那明天我用水彩来画你。”

“咱们什么时候吃晚饭?”她的妹妹问道,“在哪儿吃?”

“你陪我们一起吃好吗?”那黑美人姑娘问我。

“不了。我要陪我的légitime一起吃。”那时,巴黎人喜欢用légitime,而现在他们喜欢用régulière。[4]

“你非得走吗?”

“非得走而且想走。”

“那就走吧。”帕斯金说,“你可别爱上打字纸啊。”

“要是爱上了,我就改用铅笔写。”

“那我明天改画水彩。”他说,“好吧,孩子们,我再来一杯,然后到你们想去的地方吃饭。”

“去北欧海盗饭店吃。”黑美人姑娘说。

“我也想去那儿。”她的妹妹敲边鼓说。

“好吧。”帕斯金同意道,“晚安,年轻人。祝你睡得好。”

“祝你也一样。”

“她们搞得我睡不成,”他说,“连合眼的功夫都没有。”

“今天夜里叫你睡个好觉。”

“你是说在北欧海盗饭店酒足饭饱之后吗?”他咧嘴笑了笑,帽子扣在后脑勺上,样子像一个18世纪90年代百老汇舞台上的人物,而不像他本人——一个讨人喜欢的画家。他悬梁自尽之后,我总会想起那天晚上他在圆亭咖啡馆的形象。人常言:栽什么种子结什么果。我认为,那些笑对人生的人是优良种子,植根于沃土,浇灌的是高级肥料。

注释:

[1] 19世纪末20世纪前半期巴黎画派画家。

[2] 卡苏莱相传是英法百年战争的时候,受困的居民把仅剩的材料全放入锅里炖煮,却意外发现的美味。一时间,卡苏莱的香味弥漫全城,振奋人心。

[3] 美国作家,侨居巴黎。

[4] Légitime(合法妻子);régulière(固定女友)。

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