厨师下班后吃什么？

　　The Predawn Chowdown

　　厨师下班后吃什么?

　　After up to 10 hours of standing with virtually no breaks and no real nourishment, there are generally two options for a famished team of chefs, cooks, waiters, bussers, porters and everyone else it takes to run a restaurant.

　　在整整站了十个小时，没有休息，没有补充真正的营养之后，饥肠辘辘的大厨、厨师、服务员、碗碟收拾工、搬运工以及运营一个餐厅所需要的所有人通常有两个选择。

　　In Option 1, a cook on the line will whip up something fast and delicious — often a spicy pasta that people can eat out of plastic quart containers as they clean up their kitchen stations. This usually happens in places where the cooks can have a shift drink or two.

　　第一种选择是打下手的厨师飞快地做一些简便、好吃的饭菜，通常是辣意大利面，人们能在清理厨房里自己负责的区域时从塑料夸脱容器里取食。这种情况通常发生在厨师们能轮流休息并能在休息的时候喝上一两杯的餐馆。

　　In Option 2, which is usually the routine in places like mine, where the staff members are not permitted alcohol in the restaurant, everyone heads out in groups and congregates at another restaurant — usually one where cold beer is served. The most common choice is an inexpensive place in Chinatown or a Latin neighborhood, where service is quick and informal. Occasionally we head to a more traditional restaurant with a particular specialty, like sandwiches, pizza, Korean barbecue. I’ve noticed that kitchen workers always seem to like raw bars.

　　第二种选择是我这种餐馆的常见做法。因为不允许员工们在餐馆里喝酒，所以我们下班后就成群结队地去另一家餐馆用餐——通常是供应冰啤酒的餐馆。最常见的选择是中国城或拉丁裔区的一些便宜餐馆，那里上菜快，服务比较随便。我们偶尔会去一些专做某种食物的传统餐馆，比如三明治、披萨或韩国烤肉。我注意到厨房工作人员似乎总是喜欢生食吧。

　　The first order of business is the crucial component of, shall we say, rehydration. Thirst after a hot and sweaty shift is well earned and often slaked quickly and continuously till closing time with cold beer, sake or good-value wine. Keep in mind that often this rehydration is really the only thing on the chefs’ minds, depending on where the evening falls in the pay cycle. Sometimes the evening starts out as just drinking and continues that way into the early morning, when we end up at someone’s apartment and start preparing spicy dishes.

　　第一道菜是“水合作用”(我们可以这么说吧)的重要组成部分。在受着热、流着汗上了一天班之后，口渴是自然的，通常能用冰啤酒、日本米酒或者性价比不错的红酒快速、持续缓解，直到打烊时间。要记住，通常这种水合作用是大厨们脑子里唯一惦记的事，它取决于当晚处于发薪周期的哪个阶段。有时，某个晚上一上来就是喝酒，一直喝到凌晨，发现我们躺在某个人家里，然后开始烹制辣味食物。

　　Cooks and chefs rarely tire of cooking, and making dinner for friends on a day off, or making a late-night snack for a couple of co-workers, is often a pleasure and never a task. But when you’re starting dinner after midnight, it’s best to keep things uncomplicated. These — penne all’arrabbiata, spicy shrimp sauté and spicy 3-minute calamari — are some of my late-night favorites.

　　厨师和大厨很少厌倦烹饪，在休息日为朋友做顿大餐，或者在深夜为几个同事做点小吃通常是一种乐趣，而不是任务。但是如果你在午夜之后开始烹饪，最好不要做太复杂的。我深夜爱吃的食物有辣番茄酱通心粉、嫩煎辣虾和三分钟快煎辣鱿鱼。

　　Recepe:

　　食谱：

　　1.Penne all’Arrabbiata

　　1. 辣番茄酱通心粉

　　INGREDIENTS

　　配料：

　　3 tablespoons kosher salt

　　3汤匙粗盐

　　4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus 4 more tablespoons

　　4汤匙特级初榨橄榄油，同样的油另备4汤匙

　　1/2 cup tomato paste

　　1/2杯番茄酱

　　1 tablespoon hot red-pepper flakes

　　1汤匙红辣椒片

　　1 1/2 cups chopped tomatoes, like Pomì

　　1.5杯切碎的番茄

　　1 pound penne

　　1磅通心粉

　　Maldon or other flaky sea salt

　　莫尔登(Maldon)牌海盐或其他薄片状海盐

　　Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano for serving.

　　现磨的帕尔马干酪供上菜用。

　　PREPARATION

　　制作方法：

　　1. Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot, and add 3 tablespoons kosher salt.

　　1. 在大锅中加入6夸脱水，烧开，加入3汤匙粗盐。

　　2. Meanwhile, put 4 tablespoons olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat, and then add the tomato paste and pepper flakes; reduce the heat to low and stir just until fragrant, about 4 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, and remove from the heat.

　　2. 同时，在大煎锅中加入4汤匙橄榄油，用中火加热，然后加入番茄酱和辣椒片。把火力调到小火，搅拌直到散发出香味，约需4分钟。搅入番茄块，从火上移开。

　　3. Drop the pasta into the boiling water, and cook until al dente. Drain the pasta, reserving 1/4 cup of the pasta water.

　　3. 把通心粉放入煮沸的水中，煮到有嚼劲。把通心粉空干，保留1/4杯面汤。

　　4. Add the pasta and the reserved pasta water to the tomato sauce, stir and toss over medium heat until the pasta is well coated. Season with salt if necessary, then add the remaining oil, tossing well. Serve immediately, with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano on the side.

　　4. 把通心粉和面汤加入番茄酱中，用中火搅拌，直到通心粉完全裹上番茄酱。需要的话加点盐调味，然后把剩下的油倒入，搅拌均匀。即刻上桌，旁边摆上帕尔马干酪。

　　YIELD

　　份量：

　　Serves 6

　　6人份。

　　2. Spicy Shrimp Sauté

　　2. 嫩煎辣虾

　　INGREDIENTS

　　配料：

　　2 tablespoons red curry paste

　　2汤匙红咖喱酱

　　1/4 cup fish sauce

　　1/4杯鱼露

　　1/4 cup sambal

　　1/4杯参巴辣酱

　　1/4 cup sweet chili sauce

　　1/4杯甜辣酱

　　2 pounds medium shrimp, peeled and deveined

　　2磅中等个头的虾，去皮、去肠

　　3 tablespoons light sesame oil

　　3汤匙淡芝麻油

　　1 cup sliced scallions

　　1杯切成丝的大葱

　　2 tablespoons sweet soy sauce

　　2汤匙甜酱油

　　1(14-ounce) can light coconut milk

　　1罐(14盎司)淡椰奶

　　1 bunch cilantro, chopped.

　　1把芫荽，切碎。

　　PREPARATION

　　制作方法

　　1. Combine curry paste, fish sauce, sambal and chili sauce in a medium bowl; add shrimp, tossing to coat. Place a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until hot. Add oil, and heat till smoking then add the shrimp mixture, and sauté for 2 minutes. Add scallions; cover, and cook for 3 minutes. Stir in soy sauce and coconut milk. Cook for 3 minutes or until thoroughly heated. Add cilantro and serve.

　　1. 在一个中号碗中，把咖喱酱、鱼露、参巴辣酱和甜辣酱搅拌到一起，加入虾，搅拌至虾都裹上酱。把一个大的不粘煎锅放到中火上加热。加入油，加热至油冒烟，然后加入虾混合物，煎2分钟。加入大葱，盖上盖子，煎3分钟。搅入酱油和椰奶。再煎3分钟，直至完全加热。加入芫荽，上桌。

　　YIELD

　　份量：

　　Serves 4

　　4人份。

　　3. Spicy 3-Minute Calamari

　　3. 三分钟快煎辣鱿鱼

　　INGREDIENTS

　　配料：

　　1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

　　1/4杯特级初榨橄榄油，另备一些供淋洒

　　2 tablespoons pine nuts

　　2汤匙松仁

　　2 tablespoons currants

　　2汤匙加仑子

　　1/4 cup caperberries

　　1/4杯刺山柑果

　　4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

　　4瓣大蒜，切成薄片

　　1 tablespoon hot red-pepper flakes

　　1汤匙红辣椒片

　　1 cup basic tomato sauce

　　1杯原味番茄酱

　　1 1/2 pounds cleaned calamari, tubes cut into 1/4-inch rounds, tentacles halved

　　1.5磅洗净的鱿鱼，管状部分切成1/4英寸宽的圆圈，触须切成两半

　　8 scallions, thinly sliced (reserve some for garnish)

　　8根大葱，切成细丝(留一些装饰用)

　　Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.

　　粗盐和现磨黑胡椒。

　　PREPARATION

　　制作方法：

　　1. Heat 1/4 cup oil in a large sauté pan until just smoking. Sauté the pine nuts, currants, caperberries, garlic and red-pepper flakes until the pine nuts are golden brown, about 2 minutes. Add the tomato sauce, and bring to a simmer. Stir in the calamari, mix well and simmer for 2 or 3 minutes, or until the calamari is just cooked and completely opaque. Toss in the scallions, and season with salt and pepper. Pour into a large, warm bowl, sprinkle with the reserved scallions, drizzle with olive oil, and serve immediately.

　　在大煎锅里加入1/4杯油，加热至微微冒烟。把松仁、加仑子、刺山柑果、大蒜和红辣椒片煎至松仁变成金黄，约需2分钟。加入番茄酱，加热至微微沸腾。搅入鱿鱼，搅拌均匀，小火煎两三分钟，或煎至鱿鱼刚刚熟透，完全不透明。放入葱丝，再加点盐和黑胡椒调味。倒入温过的大碗中，撒上备好的葱丝，滴上一点橄榄油，即刻上桌。

　　YIELD

　　份量：

　　Serves 4

　　4人份。