在法租界的林荫路，探访俗丽之外的上海

SHANGHAI — China has such a glut of malls these days that visitors to flashy cities like Shanghai may wonder whether any independent boutiques and handcrafted items survive. Take heart, shopping lovers, they do exist. Just venture way from the commercial (and, frankly, not very interesting) retail stores lining Nanjing Road and Xintiandi and explore the winding, tree-shaded streets of the former French Concession.

上海——眼下，中国的商场严重过剩，造访上海之类俗丽城市的人可能会怀疑，是否还存在任何独立的精品店以及手工制作的物件。别灰心，购物爱好者们，它们的确存在。只要你避开南京路和新天地林立的商业化门店(坦率地说，它们也不是十分有趣)，探访原法租界蜿蜒的林荫路。

For Chinese fashion, the concept shop Dong Liang has established itself as a go-to source in the city, for both cutting-edge style and thoughtful selection. Opened in a charming villa in 2011, the original boutique features 30 women’s designers at varying prices, such as Yang Li, a fixture on the Paris runways and in the pages of Vogue, and Angel Chen, whose bright red raincoat emblazoned with the Chinese character for “dragon” in red sequins (4,680 renminbi, or about $707) is a showstopper.

在上海，栋梁(Dong Liang)概念店因其前卫的风格和精心的选择，而成为了一个入手中国时装设计师作品的好去处。这家原创精品店于2011年在一栋迷人的别墅里揭幕，以不同的价格提供30位女性设计师的作品，比如李阳(Yang Li)，她是巴黎秀场的常客，频频登上《时尚》(Vogue)杂志，再比如陈安琪(Angel Chen)，她设计的大红色雨衣外套，饰有以红色亮片连掇成的汉字“龙”(4860人民币，约合707美元)，在秀场上赢得了大量喝彩和掌声。

Around the corner is Dong Liang’s men’s boutique, the Crow House, in another beautifully renovated old lane house, which has a rotating selection of pieces by 20 designers, including hand-dyed indigo button-down shirts and sports jackets (1,299 renminbi) by a co-founder, Nan Lang, and Feng Chen Wang’s graphic, 3-D-inspired sweatshirts (3,980 renminbi).

不远处是栋梁的男装精品店乌鸦之家(Crow House)，它位于另一栋翻修得很精美的老房子里，轮流展示由20位设计师设计的精品服饰，其中包括出自栋梁联合创始人南朗(Nan Lang)之手的手工染色靛蓝纽扣领衬衫和运动夹克(1299人民币)，以及出自王逢陈(Feng Chen Wang)之手的3D立体图案运动衫。

Tucked down a winding lane across the street is fabric of a more traditional sort — indigo cloth hand-printed with intricate floral designs known as blue nankeen. Though fashion-forward Chinese youths now consider the textiles somewhat outdated, the Chinese Printed Blue Nankeen Exhibition Hall (637 Changle Road, No. 24) aims to keep this craftsmanship alive by stocking a huge array of pieces made by artisans in rural Anhui Province, including cotton and silk scarves (from 195 renminbi), tablecloths (from 435 renminbi) and women’s blouses with Chinese embroidery (695 renminbi). At times, the cloth is artfully displayed in the tranquil yard behind the shop, billowing in the breeze.

更具传统色彩的东西隐身于街对面一条蜿蜒的小巷中。在靛蓝色布料上以手工印制错综复杂的花卉图案，名为蓝印花布。一些位于时尚前沿的中国年轻人现在或许认为这种布料有些过时，但为了让这门手艺存续下去，中国蓝印花布馆(长乐路637弄24号)的货品中包含了大量由安徽乡间的手艺人制作的织物，包括棉巾及丝巾(195人民币起)、桌布(435人民币起)和带有中式刺绣的女式衬衫(695人民币)。有时候，这种布料会在蓝印花布馆静谧的后院里以巧妙的方式展出，在微风中轻轻飘荡。

For the Dutch designer Pim Gietelink, meanwhile, wood is the material of choice. And his nearly two-year-old boutique, Kate Wood Originals, named for his daughter, is full of the stuff. With a focus on sustainability and quality design, the shop specializes in watches made from rosewood, maple and sandalwood from North America and Southeast Asia (from 888 renminbi), as well as sunglasses (788 renminbi) and bicycles (7,500 renminbi) built from locally sourced bamboo. The shop will box the bicycles for air travel as an oversize piece of luggage.

与此同时，对荷兰设计师皮姆·吉特林克(Pim Gietelink)来说，木头是首选材料。其成立近两年的精品店Kate Wood Originals，是以他女儿的名字命名的，里边满是木制品。这家注重可持续性和高水准设计的店铺，专门经营以源自北美和东南亚的红木、枫木、檀香木制成的手表(888人民币起)，还有太阳镜(788人民币)，以及用产自当地的竹子制成的自行车(7500人民币)。这家店可以把自行车打包成超大尺寸的空运行李。

For a refueling spot on rapidly gentrifying Wulumuqi Road, the choices can be dizzying — including poke bowls, banh mi and Turkish kebabs. The tastiest spot, however, is Slurp! (247-3 Wulumuqi Road), which serves authentic (not to mention super cheap) comfort foods from southwestern Yunnan Province on the border with Myanmar, such as highly slurp-able noodles topped with tofu, bean sprouts and pickled vegetables and irresistible pan-fried Yunnan goat cheese.

要在迅速中产化的乌鲁木齐路上找个地方补充能量，面前的选择可能令你眼花缭乱——其中包括波奇饭(poke bowls)、越式法包(banh mi)和土耳其烤肉。不过，食物最美味的地方非Slurp!(乌鲁木齐中路247-3号)莫属，它供应正宗(更别提还超级便宜)的来自云南省和缅甸交界处的舒心美食，比如可以呼噜噜吸溜进嘴里的面条——上边加了豆腐、豆芽、腌菜——还有格外诱人的油煎云南山羊奶酪。

The final shopping stop is the granddaddy of high-design, handmade pieces, Spin Ceramics. Just north of the former French Concession in the Jing’an district, Spin’s studio overflows with gorgeous and creative pieces of porcelain: paperweights in the shape of dim sum (90 renminbi), “water bag” vases that appear to be melting off their wooden stands (280 renminbi) and wearable red and black ceramic bow ties (220 to 240 renminbi). The 15-year-old company has a highly successful business model: It pairs young designers in Shanghai with master craftsmen in Jingdezhen (the birthplace of Chinese pottery) to produce unique and modern, well, spins on traditional porcelain.

购物的最后一站是旋陶瓷(Spin Ceramics)，一家供应高设计手工物件的老牌店铺，就在静安区原法租界以北。这家陶瓷店里摆满了富有创意的精美瓷器：点心形状的镇纸(90元人民币，看上去似乎正在木制底座上融化开去的“水袋”花瓶(280人民币)，以及可佩戴的红色和黑色陶瓷蝴蝶领结(220至240人民币)。这家成立15年的公司，有一种非常成功的商业模式：它把上海的年轻设计师和中国陶瓷之都景德镇的大师级匠人配对，制作独一无二的现代与传统相结合的瓷器。