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女士们牛仔裤上的假口袋

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2018年08月29日

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Women throughout history have suffered through the impractical realities that result from the whimsies of fashion, and the modern era is no exception. Though there are so many examples to choose from at this current moment (why do so many designers think we want our shoulder skin exposed to cold air?), the most rage-inducing insult of female apparel is undoubtedly the lack of functional pockets compared to menswear.

纵观历史,女性都忍受过时尚所带来的一些不切实际的服装设计,就是现在也不例外。虽然现在女性有很多衣服可以选择,但是与男装相比,最让人愤怒的还是缺少功能性口袋。

女士们牛仔裤上的假口袋

Designers may be able to scrape by on the dress and skirt fronts with talk of clean silhouettes and seam placement, but there are no good excuses for why it’s so impossible to find women’s pants that can fit the phones, wallets, and keys that all humans like to carry. And while many sociological essays, pithy Internet think pieces, and social media rants have highlighted this issue and speculated about why it persists, it seems that no one has used the scientific method to prove how bad it has become. Until now.

设计师们可能会在裙子和裤子上加上一些用于装饰的“假口袋”,但他们几乎不会给女性裤子加上便于携带手机、钱包和钥匙的口袋。尽管许多社会学文章以及社会媒体的咆哮都强调了这个问题,并推测为什么这个问题仍然存在,但似乎从来没有人用科学的方法来证明它已经变得有多糟糕了。

In a new visual essay for The Pudding, journalists Jan Diehm and Amber Thomas share pocket measurements taken from 80 pairs of jeans – 40 men’s and 40 women’s – made by 20 of the most popular brands.

在《布丁》的一篇文章中,记者简·迪恩和安珀·托马斯分享了由20个最受欢迎的品牌制作的80条牛仔裤——40条男士的和40条女士的。

Their analysis revealed that, overall, women’s front pockets are 48 percent shorter and 6.5 percent narrower than men’s. The differences were essentially the same when comparing only skinny jeans or only straight-leg jeans across male and female styles.

他们的分析显示,与男性的口袋相比,女性口袋的长度短了48%,宽度窄了6.5%。

To illuminate how these size discrepancies translate to a real-life frustration, the duo used a computer model to test whether or not standard pocket items could fit into the pockets. Unsurprisingly, only 40 percent of the women’s front pockets measured could fit an iPhone X, whereas 100 percent of the men’s pockets could. The rates were the same when assessing for a standard-size front-pocket wallet.

为了阐明这些尺寸差异如何在生活中困扰着女性,两人使用了一个计算机模型来测试某些东西能否装进口袋里。不出所料,只有40%的女性口袋可以装入iPhoneX和一个标准钱包,而男性的口袋几乎都可以。

When looking at a Google Pixel, the model showed that a pitiful 5 percent of women's pockets could accommodate the phone, compared with 85 percent of men's.

当用谷歌Pixel来试验时,大约只有5%的女性口袋可以装得下,男性的口袋却大部分(85%)都可以。But perhaps the most absurd finding was that only 10 percent of the women’s jean pockets tested were large enough to fit the entirety of an average-sized woman’s hand.

最荒谬的是,只有10%的女性口袋可以让女性把整只手放进去。

“If you’re thinking ‘But men are bigger than women,’ then sure, on average that’s true,” Diehm and Thomas wrote. “But here we measured 80 pairs of jeans that all boasted a 32-inch waistband, meaning that these jeans were all made to fit the same size person.”

迪恩和托马斯写道:“如果你在想‘男人的体型要比女人大’,没错,平均来说确实如此。但在我们测量了这80条牛仔裤,它们的腰围都是81厘米,这意味着这些牛仔裤都是为了同样尺寸的人而做的。”

Regarding back pockets, the authors note that the difference between women’s and men’s styles was "less egregious".

至于屁股后面的口袋,作者指出,女性和男性之间的差异“不那么令人震惊”。

According to the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, the inequality between men and women’s pockets dates all the way back to the 1600s; when pockets nearly identical to the ones we see today became popular on men’s pants and jackets, while women’s dresses were given ridiculous sacs that attached to layers underneath their petticoats.

根据伦敦的维多利亚和阿尔伯特博物馆的说法,男性和女性的口袋之间的不平等可以追溯到16世纪。当时男性的口袋几乎和我们如今的口袋没什么区别,在男性的裤子和外套上;而女人的裙子则被给予了荒谬的袋子,附着在衬裙下面。


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