二手时装正在迅速增长，到2025年将达到640亿美元

二手时装正在迅速增长，到2025年将达到640亿美元

It's a tough time to be in the fashion industry, with widespread store closures and staffing shortages and nervous customers whose disposable incomes have shrunk in recent months. The only segment of the industry that has really been flourishing throughout these strange times is secondhand, as revealed in the annual resale report published by thredUP and GlobalData, a third-party retail analytics firm.

现在是时尚界的艰难时期，商店纷纷关门，员工短缺，近几个月来，顾客的可支配收入缩水，心情紧张。第三方零售分析公司thredUP和GlobalData发布的年度转售报告显示，在这个奇怪的时期，该行业唯一真正繁荣的领域是二手零售。

thredUP is an online platform that allows people to buy and sell used clothing. It's a clever model that has managed to make thrift shopping as easy and convenient as shopping for new clothes online; and being established before the coronavirus pandemic struck has allowed thredUP to grow impressively at a time when similar businesses are stagnating (or worse).

thredUP是一个允许人们买卖二手衣服的在线平台。这是一种聪明的模式，使廉价购物像在网上买新衣服一样简单、方便;在冠状病毒大流行爆发之前建立起来的公司，让thredUP在类似业务停滞不前(甚至更糟)的时候，取得了令人印象深刻的增长。

thredUP (used with permission)

The annual report for 2020 shows that "resale is set to soar." Between 2019 and 2021, online secondhand shopping is expected to grow by 69%, while the broader retail sector (including offline secondhand) will shrink by 15%. The entire resale sector is expected to grow to five times its current size over the next five years, hitting $64 billion in worth, and will be twice the size of the fast fashion sector by 2029.

2020年的年度报告显示，“转售将会激增。”2019年至2021年，网上二手购物预计将增长69%，而更广泛的零售领域(包括线下二手购物)将萎缩15%。未来五年，整个转售行业的规模预计将增长到目前的五倍，达到640亿美元，到2029年将是快时尚行业规模的两倍。

thredUP (used with permission)

What's driving this explosive growth?

是什么推动了这种爆炸性增长?

There are a number of factors. One is that shoppers are looking for better value, and they realize that buying used clothes is the easiest way to achieve that. The stigma associated with used clothing is not as strong as it once was (90% of Gen Z shoppers say there's no stigma at all), and almost half of shoppers surveyed say they plan to spend more on secondhand items in the next twelve months.

有很多因素。一是购物者在寻找更有价值的东西，他们意识到购买二手衣服是实现这一目标最简单的方法。人们对二手衣服的偏见已经不像以前那么强烈了(90%的Z一代购物者说根本不存在偏见)，几乎有一半的受访者表示，他们计划在未来12个月里在二手衣服上花更多的钱。

Another factor is the coronavirus pandemic, and the fact that so many people have been cooped up at home. Avid shoppers had to find an outlet online, which is why platforms like thredUP did so well. It also received a huge amount of inventory, purged from people's closets during a "quarantine clean-out frenzy."

另一个因素是冠状病毒大流行，如此多的人被关在家里。狂热的购物者不得不在网上找到一个销售点，这就是为什么像thredUP这样的平台做得这么好。它还收到了大量库存，这些库存都是在一次“检疫清理狂潮”中从人们的衣橱中清理出来的。

Finally, people are more concerned about sustainability than ever before. Young shoppers in particular are more aware of the damage caused by the fashion industry, its notoriously poor working conditions, its enormous water footprint, and the toxic chemicals used to create colors and finishes, and they are keen to make fashion-related decisions to mitigate that harm. In fact, the report found that "choosing unsustainable options now elicits feelings of guilt or shame, while being green gives a euphoric mood boost."

最后，人们比以往任何时候都更加关注可持续发展。尤其是年轻的购物者，他们更加意识到时尚行业所造成的损害，其臭名昭著的恶劣工作条件，其巨大的水足迹，以及用于制造颜色和抛光的有毒化学物质，他们热衷于做出与时尚相关的决定，以减轻这种损害。事实上，该报告发现，“选择不可持续的选项会引发内疚或羞愧感，而绿色则会带来愉悦的情绪。”

It's more than just a euphoric mood boost; it actually does make a difference. If everyone wore a thrifted outfit to a wedding next year, it would save 1.65 pound of CO2e, which is equivalent to taking 56 million cars off the road for one day. Reselling a dress instead of tossing it reduces its CO2e impact by 79%. By choosing secondhand, you can shrink your own carbon footprint by 527 pounds in a year.

这不仅仅是一种欣快的情绪提升;这确实很重要。如果明年每个人都穿着廉价的衣服去参加婚礼，将节省1.65英镑的二氧化碳，相当于减少5600万辆汽车一天的排放量。将一件衣服转卖而不是扔掉可以减少79%的二氧化碳排放。如果选择二手的，你一年可以减少527磅的碳足迹。

thredUP (used with permission)

There is potential for this to turn into a positive feedback loop of sorts, where savvy shoppers start buying higher quality items so that they'll retain value and can be resold when the time comes. This in turn has the potential to reduce demand for cheap and shoddily constructed "fast fashion."

这有可能变成某种积极的反馈循环，精明的购物者开始购买更高质量的商品，这样它们就能保持价值，并在时机成熟时转售。这反过来又有可能减少对廉价粗制滥造的“快时尚”的需求。

Everyone is jumping on the resale bandwagon these days. Major retailers are partnering with thredUP through its new "Resale as a Service" platform to broaden their earnings and spruce up their sustainability credentials. They're offering Clean Out Kits to customers to send in used clothing and earn credits toward thredUP products. As described by Business of Fashion,

现在每个人都赶上了转卖的潮流。主要的零售商正通过其新的“服务转售”平台与thredUP合作，以扩大他们的收入，并美化他们的可持续性信誉。他们向顾客提供清洁工具包，让他们把旧衣服寄进来，并获得购买thredUP产品的积分。正如时尚商业杂志所描述的，

"If I’m a fashion brand right now and see that the resale industry is growing at a rate that’s 21 times faster than the overall fashion industry, I’d be thinking to myself, 'How do I get a piece of this?'"

“如果我现在是一个时尚品牌，看到转售行业的增长速度比整个时尚行业快21倍，我就会想，‘我怎么才能分得一杯羹?’”

While online secondhand shopping may not be for everyone, it's exciting to see how well it's doing at a time when so much else is struggling. It offers a straightforward solution to the problems of clothing overconsumption and environmental degradation, while still enabling people to dress well and for less money than they'd spend otherwise. What's not to love about that?

虽然网上二手购物可能不适合每个人，但在其他很多东西都在挣扎的时候，看到它做得这么好，还是令人兴奋的。它为服装过度消费和环境恶化的问题提供了一个直接的解决方案，同时仍然使人们能够穿着得体，而且花费比不这样做要少。有什么理由不去喜欢这种模式呢?