低胸装时代来临，回归自然胸型

　　低胸装时代来临，回归自然胸型

　　Out with the Wonderbra, in with the ... sag? (And we don’t mean the Screen Actors Guild.) Dresses with revealing necklines have been stealing the spotlight this awards season, signaling, perhaps, a new era in red-carpet décolletage.

　　神奇胸罩(Wonderbra)过时了，入时的是……下垂(sag)?(这里可不是指银幕演员公会[Screen Actors Guild]。)低领连衣裙在这个颁奖季抢尽风头，也许昭示着红地毯上低胸装新时代的来临。

　　At the Guild’s awards last month, Michelle Dockery, a star of “Downton Abbey,” wore a black and white J. Mendel dress that exposed much of her chest, while at the Golden Globes, more than a half-dozen actresses (Amy Adams, Sandra Bullock and Kate Mara among them) turned up in low-cut frocks that seemed to defy the use of regular brassieres.

　　在上个月的美国演员工会奖(Guild’s awards)颁奖礼上，《唐顿庄园》(Downton Abbey)女星米歇尔·道克瑞(Michelle Dockery)穿着一件黑白色的J. Mendel连衣裙，暴露了胸部的很大一部分，而在金球奖上，至少有五六个女演员(包括艾米·亚当斯[Amy Adams]、桑德拉·布洛克[Sandra Bullock]和凯特·玛拉[Kate Mara])都穿着不能跟普通文胸搭配的低胸连衣裙。

　　This is a new kind of cleavage ideal: Not the often artificially inflated breasts of yore, but a more naturalistic teardrop shape that harks back to the 1970s. Tired, perhaps, of exposing the top of the breasts, with the obvious leers that practice inspires, stars are now exposing the sides (sometimes at their peril: witness, along with a tsking Twitterverse, the “House of Cards” star Robin Wright’s flash of a pasty during her acceptance speech).

　　这是一种新型的理想乳沟线条：不是之前常常人为地托高乳房，而是回归到20世纪70年代、更自然的泪滴形状。也许厌倦了露出乳房上部，因为那会引起明显的瞥视，女星们现在开始暴露乳房的侧面了(有时也有风险：《纸牌屋》[House of Cards]女星罗宾·莱特[Robin Wright]发表获奖感言时险些走光，此事在Twitter大为传播)。

　　At the Globes, Julianna Margulies and Margot Robbie, from “The Wolf of Wall Street,” also went nonchalantly low-cut.

　　在金球奖上，《华尔街之狼》(The Wolf of Wall Street)女星朱丽安娜·玛格丽丝(Julianna Margulies)和玛格特·罗比(Margot Robbie)也若无其事地穿着低胸装。

　　Valerie Steele, director and chief curator of the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, has noticed the shift. “What we had before was so much controlled and presented sexuality,” she said, referring to the corset-style gowns and push-up bras that have ruled the red carpets in awards seasons past. “The newer look is more dégagé, more natural.”

　　瓦莱丽·斯蒂勒(Valerie Steele)是纽约时装技术学院(Fashion Institute of Technology)博物馆的首席策展人和总监，她谈到了这种转变：“之前的情况是对性征大加控制和展示。”她指的是在颁奖季中泛滥红地毯的紧身胸衣式礼服和托高型胸罩。“这种新造型更大方、更自然。”

　　“Very Studio 54,” agreed the Hollywood stylist Jeanne Yang, adding that she had showcased a similar halter-style silhouette in her spring 2014 collection for Holmes & Yang, a fashion line Ms. Yang designs with the actress Katie Holmes. “It’s a really flattering look,” she said. “It can make you look taller and leaner. And in a strange way it’s sexy, but it’s not like your cleavage is out there.”

　　“这有着很强烈的54俱乐部(Studio54)风格，”好莱坞造型师珍妮·杨(Jeanne Yang)说，她还说自己2014年Holmes & Yang春装系列中有一件类似的挂脖裙。Holmes & Yang是杨与女星凯蒂·赫尔姆斯(Katie Holmes)设计的一个时尚系列。“它穿上非常好看，”她说。“可以让你看起来更高，更瘦。有一种别样的性感，但是感觉不像露出了乳沟。”

　　Andrew Gn, who designed the black and gold gown Ms. Margulies wore to the Globes, wrote in an email that the neckline on Ms. Margulies’s dress gave “sizzle to a deliberately austere dress.” “The contrast between the fairly covered body and the deep neckline makes it very modern,” he wrote.

　　鄞昌涛(Andrew Gn)是朱丽安娜·玛格丽丝在金球奖上穿着的黑、金色礼服的设计师，他在一封电子邮件中写道，那件衣服的V领“是一件特意显得简朴的连衣裙的迷人亮点。”还写道，“低领口和被包裹的全身的对比，让它显得非常时髦。”

　　Mary Alice Stephenson, a style consultant, credited musicians like Rihanna, who wore low-cut Armani to the Grammy Awards in 2012, and Jennifer Lopez, who drew attention in a plunging Zuhair Murad gown at the 2012 Vanity Fair Oscars party, for starting the trend. She also cited young designers like Peter Dundas, artistic director at Emilio Pucci, and Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs of the New York-based brand Cushnie et Ochs, for trying to “reinvent glamorous dressing” with design elements like cutouts and deep necklines.

　　玛丽·爱丽丝·斯蒂芬森(Mary Alice Stephenson)是一名造型顾问，她说是蕾哈娜(Rihanna)和珍妮弗·洛佩兹(Jennifer Lopez)这样的音乐人开启了这个趋势：蕾哈娜2012年穿着低胸阿玛尼(Armani)礼服参加格莱美奖，洛佩兹2012年参加《名利场》(Vanity Fair)奥斯卡派对时穿着的一件祖海·慕拉(Zuhair Murad)低领口礼服也吸引了大家的注意。她还列举了璞琪(Emilio Pucci)的艺术总监彼得•邓达斯(Peter Dundas)，纽约品牌Cushnie et Ochs的卡莉·库什尼(Carly Cushnie)和米歇尔·奥克斯(Michelle Ochs)等年轻设计师，说他们用挖空设计和低领元素来“重塑迷人的连衣裙”。

　　“Fashion is pushing the boundaries of what is acceptable,” Ms. Stephenson said. “It’s less about being ladylike and more about being powerful.”

　　“时尚正在推动‘什么是可以接受’的界限，”斯蒂芬森说。“它表现的主要不是淑女风范，而是强大气场。”

　　Johnny Talbot, who is a designer of Talbot Runhof, a ready-to-wear line based in Munich, believes celebrities are vying for the public’s increasingly divided attention with ever-more-scandalous ensembles. (Kim Kardashian in the black Givenchy dress she wore during the last Paris Fashion Week comes to mind, as does Lady Gaga.) “The competition is so fierce among these girls,” Mr. Talbot said. “Everyone wants to be younger and sexier and chicer, and it’s all about exposure. And part of this is exposure of the skin.”

　　约翰尼·塔尔博特(Johnny Talbot)是慕尼黑成衣品牌Talbot Runhof的设计师，他认为名人们正在用比以往更夸张的服装来争夺公众日益分散的注意力。(金·卡戴珊[Kim Kardashian]上次在巴黎时装周穿的黑色纪梵希[Givenchy]礼服映入脑海，还有Lady Gaga。)“在这些女孩中，竞争非常激烈，”塔尔博特说。“每个人都想显得更年轻、更性感、更时髦，曝光度是最重要的。而暴露皮肤是曝光的一部分。”

　　Take, for example, the black and white Cushnie et Ochs frock the actress Malin Akerman sported to the People’s Choice Awards on Jan. 8. It featured a daring — not to mention inventive — T-bar cutout on the chest that left little to the imagination. Heidi Klum, meanwhile, drew attention to her poitrine in a black Giorgio Armani gown with a deep V neckline, and earlier that same day — at a charity luncheon, no less — the “Glee” actress Dianna Agron (in a white blazer dress) and the singer Natasha Bedingfield (in a cleavage-revealing black dress) also appeared to have foregone their bras.

　　比如，女演员马林·阿克曼(Malin Akerman)1月8日参加人民选择奖(People’s Choice Awards)穿的黑、白色Cushnie et Ochs连衣裙。其特点是大胆的——更不用说别出心裁了——胸部T型挖空设计几乎不留想象空间。海蒂·克拉姆(Heidi Klum)用一件深V领口黑色阿玛尼礼服把人们的注意力吸引到她的胸部，而当天早些时候——在一个慈善午宴上，居然——《欢乐合唱团》(Glee)女星戴安娜·艾格伦(Dianna Agron)(穿着白色西服裙)和歌手娜塔莎·贝丁菲尔德(Natasha Bedingfield)(穿着黑色透视装)似乎也没有穿文胸。

　　“It’s like they’re all letting it all hang out,” Ms. Steele said.

　　“就好像她们让胸一直晃荡着，”斯蒂勒说。

　　Some plastic surgeons concurred that there has been a shift in focus away from the top of the breast, which they call the upper pole, to the place where the breast tissue meets the chest wall, referred to by doctors as the inframammary fold.

　　一些整形外科医生认为，重点已经从乳房的上部——医生称之为“上极”(upper pole)——转移到了乳房组织跟胸壁结合的地方，医生称之为“乳房下皱襞”(inframammary fold)。

　　When it comes to the Barbie-doll look, “people don’t really ask for that anymore,” said Dr. Oren Tepper, assistant professor of plastic surgery at Albert Einstein College of Medicine, Montefiore Medical Center in the Bronx.

　　当谈到芭比娃娃的外形时，奥伦·泰珀(Oren Tepper)医生说：“人们不再真的要求打造这形象了。”他是阿尔伯特·爱因斯坦医学院(Albert Einstein College of Medicine)位于布朗克斯的蒙蒂菲奥医学中心(Montefiore Medical Center)的整形外科助理教授。

　　Dr. Chia Chi Kao, a plastic surgeon based in Santa Monica, Calif., said, “They want something that looks more natural and fits their frames better.” He added that revisions — the removal of overly large implants in favor of smaller ones, followed by a breast lift — now accounted for roughly 80 percent of his breast surgery business. “Women are more sophisticated, and they’re more professional,” Dr. Kao said. “They don’t want to look frumpy in a suit jacket.”

　　高嘉驰(Chia Chi Kao，音译)是加州圣莫妮卡的整形外科医生，他说：“女性想要看起来更自然，更适合自己身材的胸部。”他说，修改胸部手术——取出过大的植入物，换成较小的，加之以乳房提升——现在大约占到他的乳房手术业务的80%。“女性变得更加干练，更有专业风范。”高嘉驰说。“她们不希望在穿着西装外套的时候显得土里土气。”

　　Improved techniques, like under-the-muscle placement of implants and innovations in fat transference (from, say, the hips to the upper pole of the breast) as well as the approval of so-called gummy bear or tear-drop-shaped implants by the Federal Drug Administration, have given plastic and reconstructive surgeons the ability to create more natural-looking breasts, said Dr. Adam Kolker, an associate clinical professor at Mount Sinai Hospital in Manhattan.

　　曼哈顿西奈山医院(Mount Sinai Hospital)的临床医学副教授亚当· 科尔克尔(Adam Kolker)博士说，胸大肌下植入假体、脂肪注射方面的创新(比如，把脂肪从臀部转移到乳房上极)以及美国食品与药品管理局(Food and Drug Administration)新批准的所谓的软糖熊或泪滴形假体移植，这些更为先进的技术使整形修复科的医生能够塑造出更自然的胸部形状。

　　Dr. Shirley Madhere, a plastic surgeon in New York City who wore a cleavage-revealing Gucci dress to a gala for the New York City Ballet, said she’s noted a connection between what is happening on the red carpet and on fashion runways and what her patients are hoping to gain (or not) on her surgical table. “It’s not about volume anymore,” Dr. Madhere said. “The new mantra is, contour is queen.”

　　纽约市的整形医生雪莉·迈德赫尔(Shirley Madhere)曾穿着一件露出乳沟的古琦晚礼服参加纽约市芭蕾舞团(New York City Ballet)的一个庆典。她说，从红毯和T台上的情况，以及病人从她的手术台需要(或者不需要)获得的效果之间，她发现了一个共同点。迈德赫尔说，“重要的不再是大小。新的信条是，线条为王。”

　　However natural, the new look can require as many props as the old one. Ms. Yang said she uses Topstick, a toupee tape, to help her celebrity clients avoid wardrobe malfunctions.

　　无论多么自然，新的造型也需要同样多的支撑物。珍妮·杨说，她用Topstick——一种粘假发的胶带，帮助她的名人客户避免服装不给力的情况发生。

　　David Kirsch, the fitness expert, meanwhile, said he amps up the number of chest presses, pull overs and other exercises his clients do before award season to help give breasts a boost. “The stronger and more toned the underlying muscles are, the perkier your breasts will be,” said Mr. Kirsch, who owns the Madison Square Club in New York.

　　与此同时，健身专家大卫·基尔希还说，在颁奖季之前，他让客户增加了做卧推、提拉以及其他运动的次数，帮助他们塑造胸型。基尔希说，“肌肉越大、越具有弹性，你的胸部就越丰满。”基尔希是纽约麦迪逊广场俱乐部(Madison Square Club)的所有者。

　　Good posture also helps.

　　当然，摆出好看的姿势也有帮助。