你分得清时装和垃圾的区别吗？

　　你分得清时装和垃圾的区别吗?

　　Derelicte is really happening.

　　垃圾利用真的正在发生。

　　Twelve years after the Ben Stiller-as-supermodel classic “Zoolander” introduced the concept of a garbage-inspired fashion collection, real-life designers appear to be reprising trash as a trend. For anyone who needs a reminder, Mugatu, the bad-guy designer in the film, says: “Let me show you Derelicte. It is a fashion, a way of life inspired by the very homeless, the vagrants, the crack whores that make this wonderful city so unique.”

　　本·斯蒂勒(Ben Stiller)的经典影片《超级名模》(Zoolander)推出了以垃圾为灵感设计服装的概念，12年后，现实生活中的设计师们似乎真的在把垃圾变成一种潮流。要是你还没想起来，我给你个提示：影片中的反派设计师穆格图(Mugatu)说，“让我给你们展示垃圾利用。它是一种时尚，一种生活方式，灵感正是来自那些无家可归的人、流浪汉以及为换取毒品而卖淫的妓女——他们让这个精彩的城市如此独特。”

　　Well, let me show you the real Derelicte. On the spring runway at Lanvin, there were shiny purses that looked very much like Hefty bags. At J. W. Anderson and Giambattista Valli, there were tunics and dresses that looked as if they were made from cardboard boxes. And at his New York show, Marc Jacobs created a set strewn with detritus, calling to mind a post-apocalyptic wasteland.

　　呃，还是让我给你们展示真正的垃圾利用吧。在浪凡(Lanvin)的春季时装秀上，有一些闪亮的手袋看起来很像Hefty牌垃圾袋。在J·W·安德森(J. W. Anderson)和詹巴迪斯塔·瓦利(Giambattista Valli)的秀台上，我们能看到有的上衣和连衣裙像是用纸箱做成的。在纽约的时装秀上，马克·雅可布(Marc Jacobs)在秀台上撒满了瓦砾，让人想起了大毁灭之后的废墟。

　　During the fall season, garbage bags were used to great fashion effect by Mr. Anderson and Gareth Pugh, and Vivienne Westwood and John Galliano were doing the trash thing years ago. Perhaps designers are hoping for inclusion in the long-promised sequel to “Zoolander,” which Mr. Stiller indicated as recently as a year ago was still in development.

　　在秋季时装秀上，安德森和加勒斯·普(Gareth Pugh)用垃圾袋收到了强烈的时尚效果，而多年前薇薇安·韦斯特伍德(Vivienne Westwood)和约翰·加利亚诺(John Galliano)就在设计垃圾风服饰了。也许设计师们是希望自己能加入早已许诺拍摄的《超级名模》续集——斯蒂勒一年前说续集仍在策划之中。

　　Mr. Anderson, at his Paris showroom, acknowledged that, why yes, the intricate pleating on leather tunics in his collection did look like corrugated cardboard. There were also some garbage-bag handbags and a clutch that was meant to look like a cardboard takeout container. But actually, the stiff pleating effects came from another designer, Issey Miyake. “I have huge respect for him,” Mr. Anderson said. “This was about finding a new way of pleating.” He called his collection “avant-garde bland.”

　　安德森在巴黎的展厅里承认，他服装系列里的皮质上衣的复杂褶皱的确看起来像波状纸板。那些垃圾袋手袋和手包想要收到外卖硬纸箱的效果。但是实际上，硬朗的褶皱效果的灵感来自另一位设计师——三宅一生(Issey Miyake)。“我特别尊敬他，”安德森说，“我想找到一种新的打褶方法。”他称自己的系列是“温和的先锋派”。

　　Alber Elbaz, the Lanvin designer, has made no secret of his distaste for fashion’s obsession with ‘It’ bags, so his luxury trash bags were widely viewed as a pointed statement. (So far, he has only cryptically remarked to Jezebel, “I don’t make garbage bags.”) But no one was more literal than Mr. Valli, who included a cardboard dress (actually printed silk) that came with a rope belt (but really made of bronze). The look, he said, was inspired by the films of Pier Paolo Pasolini, which took a certain delight, as does Mr. Valli, in tormenting the bourgeoisie.

　　浪凡的设计师阿尔伯·艾尔巴茨(Alber Elbaz)从不掩饰自己对时装界痴迷“名媛”手袋的厌恶，所以他奢华的垃圾袋被普遍认为是一种尖锐的表态(到目前为止，他只对《Jezebel》含糊地说过，“我做的不是垃圾袋”)。但是没人比瓦利更直白了，他设计了一件纸箱连衣裙(实际上是印花丝绸)，配了一条绳子腰带(实际上是用青铜做成的)。他说那件衣服的灵感来源于皮埃·保罗·帕索里尼(Pier Paolo Pasolini)的电影，那些电影和瓦利一样，能从折磨有产阶层之中获得某种快乐。