秀场第一排，俄罗斯人走了，中国人来了

秀场第一排，俄罗斯人走了，中国人来了

It was not long ago that the Russians mobbed fashion week. They bought dresses, and houses like Giambattista Valli, Jean Paul Gaultier and Chanel were lining up to land them as clients.

就在不久之前，时装周上还到处都是俄罗斯人的影子。她们买买买，詹巴迪斯塔·瓦利(Giambattista Valli)、让·保罗·高缇耶(Jean Paul Gaultier)和香奈儿(Chanel)等品牌争相接待她们。

In the last year, that is gone, kaput. The Russian buyers are not in the front row. The czarinas have mostly gone missing at couture this week (replaced, in part, by Chinese pop and film stars who are trailed by an army of paparazzi from back home).

去年，这种景象烟消云散。如今，坐在头排的不再是俄罗斯买家。在这次高级定制时装周上，俄罗斯女沙皇们大都不见踪影（取而代之的是一些中国流行歌星和电影明星，她们一直被中国的狗仔队大军追随着）。

Russians, front row: Elena Perminova, center; the fashion writer Miroslava Duma, right, and the designer Ulyana Sergeenko, far right, at the Giambattista Valli show in September in Paris. They were joined by, from left, Coco Rocha and Rachel Zoe.
俄罗斯头排名人埃琳娜·佩米诺娃（中）、时尚作家米洛斯拉娃·杜玛（右）和设计师优丽亚娜·瑟吉安科（最右）去年9月在詹巴迪斯塔·瓦利巴黎时装秀上。

“The politics in Russia between countries is not the best for this time,” said Elena Perminova, a Russian front-row stalwart, from the lobby of the Palais de Tokyo, outside the Armani Privé show on Tuesday. “That’s a big reason.”

“目前，俄罗斯与各国的政治关系不是最好的时候，”俄罗斯资深头排名人埃琳娜·佩米诺娃(Elena Perminova)周二在东京宫(Palais de Tokyo)大堂的阿玛尼高级定制时装秀(Armani Privé)场外说，“这是个重要原因。”

The other significant problem? The titanic collapse of the ruble, which has lost more than 40 percent of its value in the last year.

另一个重要原因是什么呢？卢布暴跌。在过去一年中，卢布贬值超过40%。

“It’s very upsetting,” said Frol Burimskiy, a partner in Ulyana Sergeenko’s fashion label. “It’s quite hard to plan your year. We have to see where the rates are. We had to change planning many times.”

“这非常令人不安，”优丽亚娜·瑟吉安科(Ulyana Sergeenko)同名服装品牌的合伙人弗罗尔·布里姆斯基(Frol Burimskiy)说，“你很难为这一年做计划。我们不得不看看哪里的汇率最合适，不得不多次改变计划。”

Ms. Sergeenko has been one of the biggest faces of the Russian fashion invasion. She married the Russian billionaire Danil Khachaturov, became a street style star and then began a haute couture line. This season, she is showing by appointment only.

瑟吉安科是俄罗斯时装入侵中最重要的人物之一。她嫁给了俄罗斯亿万富翁丹尼尔·哈恰图罗夫(Danil Khachaturov)，成为街拍明星，然后开创了一个高级定制服装系列。这一季，只有提前预约，才能观看她的时装秀。

Mr. Burimskiy said the economy had an impact on buyers. “The Russian presence will be less,” he said. “People have to get back to life and be more serious about spending.”

布里姆斯基说，经济情况对买家们有影响。“出席时装秀的俄罗斯人会变少，”他说，“人们还是得回归日常生活，在花费上不能那么随便了。”

He said the reason Ms. Sergeenko held a presentation — albeit in a suite at Le Bristol Paris, a five-star hotel that is among the most expensive in the French capital — was not related to the Russian economy, but instead a desire to offer clients the intimacy of a private viewing.

他说，瑟吉安科举办展示会的原因与俄罗斯经济无关，而是为了给客户们一种私人观秀的亲密感。这场展示会在五星级酒店巴黎布里斯托尔(Le Bristol Paris)的一个套房里举行，该酒店是法国首都最昂贵的酒店之一。

“It’s a little bit of a different budget, and it’s a little bit smaller,” he said. “Take into account how much all the currencies are changing and what the ruble has become. It was a different decision but it was great timing, a happy decision.”

“预算跟我们最初的设想有点不同，有点少，”他说，“我们考虑了所有货币的变化以及布卢的汇率。这个决定跟我们原来的想法不同，但它的时机很好，令人满意。”

The front-row machine goes on. At the Chanel show on Tuesday, Dylan Penn sat front row while her mother, Robin Wright, went to Armani, holding hands with her boyfriend, Ben Foster.

不过头排风云仍在继续。周二，迪伦·潘(Dylan Penn) 坐在香奈儿(Chanel)时装秀的头排。而她的妈妈罗宾·怀特(Robin Wright)则携男友本·福斯特(Ben Foster)前去观看阿玛尼(Armani)的时装秀。

And at the Armani show, there were a pair of silver foxes from Germany in matching dove gray outfits. “We’re probably some of the best private customers,” said Thomas Pötzsch, who runs a shipping company. In the last year, he said, he has spent more than 100,000 euros, or about $112,900, at Armani for himself and his wife.

在阿玛尼时装秀上，有一对来自德国的漂亮中老年夫妇，他们穿着与灰白头发般配的鸽灰色套装。“我们很可能属于最私密的客户，”经营船运公司的托马斯·珀奇克(Thomas Pötzsch)说。他说，在过去一年里，他花了10多万欧元（约合11.29万美元）给自己和妻子购买阿玛尼服装。