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二合一洗发水对头发有好处吗

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2021年11月04日

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Wash, dry, style, and repeat. This is the cycle of "healthy" hair maintenance. It seems pretty straightforward, but a walk down any drugstore hair aisle can be quite overwhelming. Shampoos, conditioners, hair masks, gels, mousse, hair sprays — the list of products goes on and on. In the hustle and bustle of the 21st century, people are always looking for ways to maximize their time and "hack" life. Enter 2-in-1 shampoo and conditioner. These combo products claim to clean and condition hair all at once, saving you a few minutes in the shower each time (via Allure). But are they actually good for your hair health, or are they doing more damage?

清洗、干燥、定型,然后重复。这是一个“健康”的头发保养周期。看起来很简单,但是沿着商店的理发通道走一走就会让人不知所措。洗发水、护发素、护发膜、凝胶、摩丝、发胶——产品列表层出不穷。在21世纪的喧嚣中,人们总是在寻找最大限度地利用时间和“黑客”生活(提高生活效率)的方法。输入二合一洗发水和护发素。这些组合产品声称可以一次清洁和调理头发,每次都可以为您节省几分钟的淋浴时间。但它们真的对你的头发健康有好处,还是会造成更多的伤害?

In order to achieve and maintain healthy hair, the American Academy of Dermatology Association recommends concentrating shampoo on the scalp, and then using a conditioner after every shampoo, focusing on the tips of the hair rather than the roots. While 2-in-1 products can save you both time and money, they are not the easiest products to formulate. In essence, they are two opposite products being combined into one.

为了达到并保持头发健康,美国皮肤病学会建议将洗发水集中在头皮上,然后在每次洗发后使用护发素,重点放在发尖而不是发根上。虽然二合一产品可以为您节省时间和金钱,但它们不是那么容易互相配合。从本质上讲,它们是两个相反的产物结合在一起。

Kelly Dobos, a cosmetic chemist, discussed with Allure the difficulty that comes with developing such products saying, "Trying to combine these two incompatible types of ingredients in one formula can result in a gunky, unpleasant product." This has led the beauty industry to invest significant money and time into proper formulation. Dobos went on to say that chemists "have developed unique ways to deliver conditioning ingredients from shampoos by optimizing ratios of these ingredients, or 'hiding' the conditioning agents and polymers in an emulsion that releases those ingredients when rinsing."

化妆品化学家凯利·多博斯(Kelly Dobos)满怀诱惑地讨论了开发这类产品的困难,她说,“试图将这两种不相容的成分组合在一个配方中,可能会生成一种粘乎乎的、令人不快的产品。”这导致美容行业投入大量资金和时间进行适当的配方设计。多布斯接着说,化学家“已经开发出独特的方法,通过优化这些成分的比例,或将调节剂和聚合物“隐藏”在乳液中,在冲洗时释放这些成分,从而达到洗护合一的效果。”

Since both the shampoo and conditioning ingredients aren't as effective together as they are individually, you may notice some differences in your hair with chronic use. The biggest downside to using these 2-in-1 products is that they may lead to your mane becoming dull and flat, which is a result of product buildup. That buildup is usually due to the silicone ingredients. However, not all silicones are created equal.

由于洗发水和护发素混合使用时效果不如单独使用时有效,长期使用后你可能会注意到头发的一些变化。使用这两种产品的最大缺点是,它们可能会导致你的秀发变得枯燥易断,这是头皮堵塞的结果。这种堵塞通常是由于硅油成分造成的。然而,并非所有的硅油都是一样的。

"Good silicones," such as dimethicone copolyol, stearoxy dimethicone, and behenoxy dimethicone, gently coat each strand of hair, locking in moisture and protecting your mane from heat damage and pesky frizz (via Real Simple). These silicones are water-soluble, meaning they won't weigh your hair down or cause buildup. "Bad silicones," on the other hand, like dimethicone, cetyl dimethicone, and cyclomethicone, still coat and protect your hair, but they do so at a cost. Over time they weigh hair down with buildup.

“好的硅油”,如二甲基硅氧烷共聚物、硬脂氧二甲基硅氧烷和二甲基硅氧烷,可以轻轻地涂在每根头发上,锁住水分,保护你的头发免受热损伤和恼人的卷曲。这些硅油是水溶性的,意味着它们不会使你的头发变重或导致头皮堵塞。另一方面,“坏的硅油”,比如二甲硅氧烷、十六烷基二甲基硅氧烷和环二甲基硅氧烷,虽然也会包裹和保护你的头发,但是有代价的。随着时间的推移,头皮堵塞越来越严重。

Hairstylist Angela Cardona told Real Simple, "Occasionally alternating to a clarifying or exfoliating shampoo rather than a conditioning shampoo will let you reap all the benefits of silicones without the unwanted buildup." So if you were thinking a 2-in-1 product would mean no other hair care products cluttering your shower caddy, think again.

发型师安吉拉·卡多纳(Angela Cardona)对Real Simple说,“偶尔交替使用清洁或去角质洗发水,而不是护发洗发水,可以让你获得硅油的所有好处,而不会产生不必要的积垢。”因此,如果你认为二合一产品就意味着没有其他护发产品会弄乱你的淋浴盒,请三思。


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