荣耀归索契，灰尘归小村

Sochi Got the Gold. Bypassed Village Got Dust

荣耀归索契，灰尘归小村

KAZACHY BROD, Russia — Even people who live 10 minutes away do not seem to know how to get to Akhshtyr, a mountain village that theoretically should be basking in the warm glow of the multibillion-dollar Olympic construction bonanza all around it.

俄罗斯卡扎奇布罗德——即便是住在距离阿赫什特尔十分钟远的人们，似乎也不知道该如何去那儿。阿赫什特尔是一个位于山间的小村。从理论上来说，它此刻应该正享受着其周边数十亿奥运设施建设所带来的机遇，沐浴在其温暖的光辉中。

“Walk over the bridge,” Valentina Kvasnikova advised on a recent afternoon, gesturing past her house toward a swaying, bouncing structure made of rickety, indifferently nailed-together wooden slats suspended above the turbid Mzymta River. Once the bridge was negotiated (and it was hard to know whether to crawl or to run), Akhshtyr loomed tantalizingly close — just across the new 48-kilometer high-speed railway tracks and the sleek new superhighway linking the Black Sea resort of Sochi to the mountains high above it.

“走过那座桥，”瓦莲京娜·克瓦斯尼科娃(Valentina Kvasnikova)最近的一个午后在家门外这样建议，一边指向远处姆济姆塔河上的一座木结构桥梁。这座随风摇摆、起伏的木桥由木板松松垮垮地钉在一起、看上去就要散架。很难判断应该是爬过这座桥，还是跑过去。一旦穿过了它，阿赫什特尔就近在眼前了，只需要穿过那座新修的48公里长的高铁轨道，以及连接索契黑海度假圣地和背后高山的崭新耀眼的高速公路。

But no ramp connects Akhshtyr to the new road. The train does not stop in the village, and according to eight police officers who emerged from different directions to deliver eight variations of “you can’t get there from here,” pedestrians are strictly forbidden to cross from one side to the other.

但却没有一条坡道能从阿赫什特尔通向那条新修的路。火车不会停靠这个小村，八位来自不同方向的警察传达了八种不同版本的“你不能从此地前往那里”的警告，据他们说，行人严禁从公路一头穿到另一头。

Being cut off from the main road is not the only indignity faced by Akhshtyr’s 200 or so residents since Russia decided to spend as much as $8 billion on a wildly ambitious plan to turn a sleepy Caucasian road into a major transportation corridor for its grand Olympic project.

对于阿赫什特尔200名左右的居民来说，自从俄罗斯决定投入高达80亿美元(约合480亿元人民币)实施一项极其宏伟的计划，将一条沉寂的高加索小道变成一条通向其壮丽奥运会项目的主要运输通道以后，他们所遭受的羞辱就不止是被隔断在主干道之外。

Every Olympics has its local casualties — displaced neighborhoods, merchants who lose business, residents grumbling about traffic — and some communities here have fared better than others. Akhshtyr (pronounced akh-SHTEER), a hodgepodge of ramshackle houses and meandering farm animals nestled in the breathtakingly beautiful mountains between the Olympic Park on the Black Sea coast and the snow-sports venues of Krasnaya Polyana above, has fared very badly indeed.

每一界奥运会都会让当地遭受一些损失——整片的居民区搬迁、商人们失去生意、居民对拥堵表示不满。在这里，也有一些社区的运气更好一些。在阿赫什特尔，在破旧房屋之间常常见到四处游走的农畜。小村所在的群山位于黑海沿岸的奥林匹克公园和雪上运动场地红波利亚纳之间，美得令人窒息。而这个小村的运气可谓十分糟糕。

For the last five years, construction trucks have rumbled day and night through the street that bisects the village, on what used to be a gravel road but was paved over for Olympic building purposes. The village has gone without fresh water since 2008, ever since its drinking wells were wrecked by the vast new waste dump serving the vast new gravel quarry on the mountain. Now residents rely on intermittent water deliveries from the authorities.

为了奥运设施建设的便利，村中一条碎石路被改造成了大路，将小村割裂开来。在过去五年，建筑用卡车在这条路上来来往往，日夜发出轰隆隆的噪音。自从2008年起，小村的水井被大量服务于山上新开采石场的垃圾场所破坏，这个村子就再也没有清水了。如今，村民们只能依靠政府时不时地送水进来。

“At times, layers of dust — up to five inches thick — cover the road and residents’ houses, yards and gardens,” the advocacy group Human Rights Watch said in a report released in December.

“有时候，厚达5英寸(约合13厘米)的灰尘会覆盖住道路、居民房屋、庭院和花园，”倡导组织人权观察(Human Rights Watch)在去年12月公布的一份报告中写道。

Things are not necessarily great in the communities around Akhshtyr, either, but at least you can get to them. Loath to criticize the government when swarms of law enforcement officials brought in for the Olympics are lurking seemingly everywhere, nearby residents said they hoped that some of the money pouring into the region would find its way to them.

在阿赫什特尔周边的社区，情况也未必有多好，但至少你能够到达那些地方。成群的为奥运会而来的执法官员潜伏在每个地方，附近的居民们虽不愿批评政府，但也表示，他们希望为这个地区投入的大量金钱能分给他们一些。

In Kazachy Brod, Ms. Kvasnikova, 59, was shaking out her bathmat in front of a tired-looking four-story apartment building, with residents’ laundry suspended on an elaborate clothesline connected to a treetop. She said she was excited “the whole world is coming here” for the Olympics. Not only had her building been repainted — albeit not very recently, at least judging by its appearance — but “they’ve been promising to bring in a gas line,” she said.

在卡扎奇布罗德，59岁的克瓦斯尼科娃正在一栋看来十分陈旧的四层公寓楼前抖动她的浴室脚垫，不远处是一根小心架在树顶的晾衣绳，上面晾晒着居民们的衣服。她说，为了奥运会，“全世界的人都在赶往这里”，她十分激动。不仅她住的房子被重新粉刷了——虽然至少从外观上看，不是最近刷的——而且“他们一直承诺要修一条输气管”，她说。

On the other hand, Alexei Ivanovich, 36, who works in Kazachy Brod’s major tourist attraction, a trout fishery, said that nothing good had come from the Olympics so far, at least for him.

另一方面，在卡扎奇布罗德主要旅游景点鲑鱼场工作的、36岁的阿列克谢·伊万诺维奇(Alexei Ivanovich)表示，到现在为止，奥运会没有带来任何好处，至少对他来说没有。

“It’s clearer to see the benefits for the government,” said Mr. Ivanovich, who was resting in the front seat of an old, battered car, 1980s American rock music blaring from the speakers. He and his wife live with their four daughters in an apartment that is barely 150 square feet, he said.

“更容易看清政府能得到的好处，”伊万诺维奇说。他正坐在一辆破旧不堪的小车的前排座位上休息，扬声器里大声播放着20世纪80年代的美国摇滚乐。他说，他和妻子以及四个女儿生活在一间还不到150平方英尺(约合14平方米)的公寓里。

“It will be good if you tell Mr. Putin to pay attention to families with many children,” he said, referring to Russia’s president, Vladimir V. Putin.

提到俄罗斯总统弗拉基米尔·V·普京(Vladimir V. Putin)，伊万诺维奇说，“要是你能告诉普京应该重视多子女家庭的话，倒是做了件好事。”

A law enforcement official was standing for no obvious purpose next to what looked like a disused hut to Mr. Ivanovich’s left. With the Olympics underway and security a major concern, such officers are visible everywhere along the new transportation corridor: in embankments, on mountain paths, in bus shelters, along guardrails, outside railway tunnels, even behind trees.

一名执法官员表面上漫无目的的站在伊万诺维奇左侧的一座看似废弃的棚屋旁边。由于奥运会正在进行，而安保工作又受到密切关切，因此新交通走廊沿途随处可见部署的警力：路堤上、山路边、公交车站、护栏边、铁路隧道外，甚至是树木从中。

As inaccessible as it has become, Akhshtyr seems to have attracted more than its fair share of such officials. A group of them was massed recently at the far end of the village.

尽管交通变得极为不便，阿赫什特尔似乎还是吸引了过多的警力。一大群警察最近就聚集到了村子的最边上。

“There’s a military post guarding strategic objects,” said one officer, who leapt out of a van to record the names of a reporter and a photographer in his little green notebook. “No photographs.”

“这里有一个保卫战略目标的军事站点，”一名警察说。他跳出了面包车，在绿色的小笔记本上记下记者和摄影师的名字。“严禁拍摄。”

It turns out that there is a way to get to the village: by driving from the other direction on an old, winding road with no exits, leading from a single entrance near the Sochi airport. This is extremely inconvenient for the villagers, many of whom do not have cars. Instead of walking to school, their children now have to take a bus from Akhshtyr down toward the airport and then up an old road on the other side of the highway, an undertaking that adds about 45 minutes to their trip.

后来发现，是有一条路可以抵达阿赫什特尔：它在另一个方向上，需要驶入索契飞机场附近的某一个路口，沿着一条没有出入口的老盘山公路开。对村民来说，这一点非常之不便。许多人并没有小汽车。他们的子女现在没法走路上学，不得不从阿赫什特尔乘公交车到机场，然后从高速路的另一边沿着一条老路往山上开。这一趟要增加45分钟的行程。

“In the old days, we could go across the river and pick up the bus from the trout fishery,” said Sergei Shegevsky, 32, a security guard from Akhshtyr. Interviewed at the town’s sparsely stocked general store, he said he was exasperated by what he said were unfulfilled promises by the government.

“以前，我们可以过河，在鲑鱼场坐公交车，”在镇上货品稀稀拉拉的杂货铺里，来自阿赫什特尔的32岁的安保员谢尔盖·舍格夫斯基(Sergei Shegevsky)说。他还表示，政府的承诺落了空，让他很气愤。

“For instance, they promised us there’d be an exit onto the main road, but now they said it’s not possible,” Mr. Shegevsky said. “It’s just unpleasant. We haven’t felt any benefits from the Olympics.”

“比方说，他们答应我们，会有个到主干道上的出口，结果现在又说不行，”舍格夫斯基说。“真是讨厌。我们没有从奥运会感受到任何的好处。”

The water situation is another problem. After the new dump poisoned the villagers’ water, the authorities promised to provide a new source and installed a water pump — a hand-operated one that “looked like it came from the 19th century,” said Jane Buchanan, the associate director for Europe and Central Asia at Human Rights Watch. The installation received great fanfare, with an opening ceremony of sorts attended by regional dignitaries. The pump worked that day; it stopped working the next.

供水则是另外一个问题。新的垃圾场污染了村里的水源后，当局曾承诺提供新的水源，于是安装了一个水泵——却是手动水泵。用人权观察组织的欧洲与中亚事务副主管简·布坎南(Jane Buchanan)的话来说，“像是来自19世纪。”安装水泵的事情搞得大张旗鼓，地区要员出席了剪彩等仪式。水泵当天可以使用，第二天就罢了工。

“It is incredibly emblematic of what has happened,” Ms. Buchanan said. “When the Olympics were scheduled to come to Sochi, the government promised, and Putin promised, that no harm would come to anyone. For this village, they were living in threadbare circumstances before the Olympics, and the Olympics made it worse.”

“发生的这些事非常具有代表性，”布坎南说。“索契获得了奥运会主办权后，政府和普京都承诺，没人会损失什么。但是对于这个村子，人们在从前就过得很艰辛，奥运会则是雪上加霜。”

Down the street from the store, Alexei Gregorian, 80, paused from chopping wood in his daughter’s backyard — next to a junkyard strewn with old car parts, piles of rags, dormant bonfires and clusters of empty soda and vodka bottles — to muse on some broader questions.

商店所在街道的另一头，80岁的阿列克谢·格雷戈里安(Alexei Gregorian)在女儿家的后院砍木头。旁边是一座垃圾场，散落着汽车废旧零件、成捆的破衣烂衫、燃尽的火堆，以及成堆的空汽水瓶和伏特加瓶。当被问到一些更宏观的问题时，他停下来想了一会。

“The Olympics are the Olympics,” he said, shrugging. “They already stole three-quarters of what they spent on it.”

“奥运会是奥运会，”他耸了耸肩。“他们本来就侵吞了四分之三的投资。”