未来的衣服设计致力于减少碳足迹

未来的衣服设计致力于减少碳足迹

Canadian-Iranian designer Roya Aghighi wants you to imagine that your shirt is alive.

加拿大籍伊朗设计师罗亚阿格海伊希望你想象你的衬衫是有活性的。

Far from dreaming up a horror movie script, Aghighi hopes we can develop a more intimate relationship with fashion -- by treating clothes as living beings that need our help to survive.

阿格海伊希望我们能与时尚发展出更亲密的关系，而不是想象出恐怖电影的剧本——把衣服当成需要我们帮助才能生存的生物。

"You're not going to throw your clothes in the corner of your closet or into the washing machine," she said over the phone from Vancouver. "It's immediately going to shift the way you think about your clothing."

“你不会把你的衣服扔到衣柜的角落里或洗衣机里，”她从温哥华打来电话说。“它会立刻改变你对衣服的看法。”

Aghighi's thought experiment isn't as far-fetched as it might seem.

阿格海伊的思维实验并不像它看起来那么牵强。

Working with a group of scientists at the University of British Columbia (UBC), she has invented a living, biodegradable fabric named Biogarmentry. Made from algae, the biofabricated textile photosynthesizes, which purifies the air around it.

她与英属哥伦比亚大学(UBC)的一组科学家合作，发明了一种活的、可生物降解的织物，名为Biogarmentry。由藻类制成的生物降解纺织品进行光合作用，从而净化周围的空气。

UBC claims it's the first living and photosynthesizing textile, and has fashioned the material into a sheer, cloak-like garment. While prototypes like these are still in the early stages of research and design, and far from mass production, they challenge the fashion industry to reimagine ways it can reduce its colossal carbon footprint through alternative fabrics.

UBC声称这是第一种有生命的、可进行光合作用的纺织品，并将这种材料制成了一种透明的、类似斗篷的服装。虽然像这样的原型还处于研究和设计的早期阶段，而

Fashion is one of the world's most polluting industries. It's responsible for more carbon emissions than international flights and shipping combined, amounting to 10% of all greenhouse gasses emitted globally, according to figures from the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP).

时尚业是世界上污染最严重的行业之一。根据联合国环境规划署(UNEP)的数据，它的碳排放量比国际航班和航运加起来还要多，占全球温室气体排放总量的10%。

US consumers are buying more garments than ever, wearing each item fewer times and sending almost 70% of the clothes and footwear produced each year to landfill, according to the US Environmental Protection Agency.

根据美国环境保护署的数据，美国消费者购买的服装比以往任何时候都多，每件衣服穿的次数都减少了，每年生产的服装和鞋类中有近70%被送往垃圾填埋场。

Changing our relationship with clothing, from one of neglectful fast-fashion consumption to an empathetic connection, is one of Aghighi's main drivers.

阿格海伊的主要驱动力之一是，改变我们与服装的关系，从一种漫不经心的快速时尚消费，转变为一种有同理心的联系。

Her innovative garment is now only at the proof-of-concept stage. With sunlight and a spray of water, its single-cell chlamydomonas reinhardtii algae come to life.

她的创新服装目前只处于概念验证阶段。在阳光和水雾的照射下，它的单细胞莱茵衣藻开始活跃起来。

Aghighi predicts consumption habits will take a long time to change. "It is going to be a slow shift," she said.

阿格海伊预计，消费习惯需要很长时间才能改变。“这将是一个缓慢的转变，”她说。

The crops traditionally used to make clothing, from cotton to hemp, absorb carbon as they grow.

传统上用来做衣服的作物，从棉花到大麻，在生长过程中吸收碳。

But end-to-end, most natural materials are still carbon emitters, says New York-based designer Charlotte McCurdy, a fellow at Rhode Island School of Design.

但从整体上看，大多数天然材料仍然是碳排放源，罗德岛设计学院的研究员、纽约设计师夏洛特·麦柯迪说。

Take a single T-shirt made of cotton, the world's most commonly used natural fiber, as an example.

以一件棉质T恤为例，棉质是世界上最常用的天然纤维。

The estimated footprint of a cotton shirt over its lifetime is 15 kilograms (33 pounds) of carbon dioxide, with most of that emitted during the energy-intensive production and dyeing processes.

一件棉质衬衫的使用寿命估计会产生15公斤(33磅)的二氧化碳，其中大部分是在能源密集型生产和染色过程中排放的。

In recent years, environmental startups have proposed a number of alternative natural fibers, from beechwood made into cashmere-like beachwear to cactus leather.

近年来，环保初创企业提出了许多可替代的天然纤维，从可制成羊绒海滩服的山毛榉到仙人掌皮。

Many of these have the potential to sequester carbon but none have been shown to achieve net-zero emissions over the lifecycle of a garment, especially when washing and drying clothes significantly add to their overall footprint.

其中许多都有吸收碳的潜力，但没有一种能在一件衣服的整个生命周期内实现净零排放，尤其是在洗涤和烘干会显著增加其总体碳足迹的情况下。