被冠状病毒封锁的罗马生活是什么样子

被冠状病毒封锁的罗马生活是什么样子

It has been less than a week since, along with 60 million Italians, I was put under a government-ordered quarantine to try to curb the spread of Italy's coronavirus outbreak, the worst outside Asia. The new slogan is #iostoacasa — I'm staying home.

不到一个星期前，我和6000万意大利人一起被政府下令隔离，以遏制意大利冠状病毒疫情的蔓延，这是亚洲以外最严重的疫情。新的口号是“我呆在家里”。

Overnight, life across the country has been turned upside down. I'm constantly wary. Of what? Who knows. Something is lurking around me and I don't know what it is. I wash my hands constantly — but I haven't been out all day and haven't seen anyone.

一夜之间，整个国家的生活发生了翻天覆地的变化。我总是小心翼翼。为什么?谁知道呢。有什么东西在我周围潜伏着，我不知道它是什么。我经常洗手，但我一整天都没出门，也没见过任何人。

Life in Italy's COVID-19 red zone is like being suspended between the Dark Ages and a sci-fi future.

生活在意大利的COVID-19红色区域就像是悬浮在黑暗时代和科幻未来之间。

Here in Rome, all of a sudden the city's usual chaotic, horn-honking soundtrack has been transformed. With hardly any traffic, you can actually hear the squeak of rusty door hinges. The chirping of birds, an early sign of spring, is almost too loud.

在罗马，突然之间，这个城市通常混乱的喇叭声被改变了。几乎没有车辆，你甚至可以听到生锈的门铰链发出的吱吱声。鸟儿的啁啾声，春天的先兆，几乎太吵了。

The lockdown measures are strictly enforced. All restaurants, cafes, pubs, retail stores, cinemas, theaters, museums — you name it — are shut down until at least March 25. The only exceptions are grocery stores, pharmacies and newsstands. The government wants to ensure all citizens have access to information, and many older Italians still prefer newsprint to small screens.

封锁措施得到严格执行。所有的餐馆、咖啡馆、酒吧、零售商店、电影院、剧院、博物馆，凡是你能想到的，都至少要关闭到3月25日。唯一的例外是杂货店、药房和报摊。政府希望确保所有公民都能获得信息，而许多年长的意大利人仍然更喜欢报纸而不是小屏幕。

Everyone who ventures out has to carry a police form, downloadable from the Ministry of Interior website, in which you have to "self-certify" why you are out. The only purposes allowed are shopping for food and medicines, health reasons, emergencies, work or returning home. Violators face three months in jail or a fine of about $230.

每个外出的人都必须携带一份可从内政部网站下载的警方表格，在这份表格中，你必须“自我证明”你外出的原因。唯一允许的用途是购买食品和药品，健康原因，紧急情况，工作或回家。违反者将面临三个月的监禁或约230美元的罚款。

I live in Trastevere, in the heart of old Rome, not far from Piazza Trilussa. The square is known for its lively nightlife.

我住在旧罗马中心的特拉斯提弗列，离特吕鲁萨广场不远。广场以其热闹的夜生活而闻名。

Not anymore. Every single storefront is shuttered. The only sound is the waterfall in the large fountain that dominates the square.

现在不是了。每一家店面都关了门。唯一的声音是广场上的大喷泉里的瀑布声。

In fact, some polls have indicated that more than 60% of Italians approve of the government lockdown decision.

事实上,一些民意调查显示,超过60%的意大利人赞成政府锁定的决定。

As I continue to meander through my neighborhood, it seems the only inhabitants these days, along with birds, are cats and ghosts. Walking on these centuries-old cobblestones, it's hard not to think they've seen this before. It was here, along the Tiber River, that a plague broke out in 1656 that claimed more than 14.000 lives.

当我继续在附近闲逛的时候，这些天来，除了鸟以外，似乎只有猫和鬼魂住在这里。走在这些有几百年历史的鹅卵石上，很难想象它们以前没有见过这样的景象。1656年，正是在这里，沿着台伯河，一场瘟疫爆发，夺去了14000多人的生命。

In normal times, visitors to Rome tell me how struck they are by the near absence of police and the abundance of priests. Suddenly, the priests have disappeared and cops are everywhere — roaming streets, making random checks that people are carrying their "self-certification" form.

在正常情况下，去罗马的游客会告诉我，他们对罗马几乎没有警察、神父众多感到多么震惊。突然之间，神父消失了，警察到处都是，他们在街道上巡逻，随机检查人们是否携带了他们的“自我证明”表格。

While churchgoers may be consoled with the chiming of bells, more secular Italians have found a different way to exorcise the coronavirus demon. Many homes display banners with pictures of rainbows and the words of another new slogan, andrà tutto bene — everything will be OK.

去教堂做礼拜的人听到钟声可能会感到安慰，但世俗的意大利人找到了一种不同的方法来驱除冠状病毒。许多家庭都挂起了彩虹图案的横幅，上面写着另一个新口号：安德拉·图托·贝尼，一切都会好起来的。

And there's been an eruption of musical flash mobs from windows and balconies, as neighbors join in song — the national anthem, pop.

窗户和阳台上出现了音乐快闪族，邻居们一起唱起了国歌、流行歌曲。

Even if homebound, Italians are reacting — at least so far — with a characteristic sense of humor, brio and musical flair.

即使是在家里，意大利人的反应是一种典型的幽默感、活力和音乐天赋，至少到目前为止是这样的。